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How to Test for Stray Electricity

melev — Sat, 13 Jul 2024 18:47:28 +0000

How to Test for Stray Electricity

Feeling a jolt? Investigate it now

melev Sat, 07/13/2024 - 21:47

Stray electricity in the aquarium is unsafe for you as well as your livestock. Usually the only time it is noticed is when a person reaches in the tank with a nick on their finger, quickly feeling a tingle or even a jolt. After that unpleasantness has passed, it's time to determine what is causing it.

There are worse scenarios, such as that acrid smell, sparks, or even fire. Let's assume that is not the case, because if it is you should be calling 911 rather than perusing my website.

First of all, you will need a voltage meter. I prefer a digital meter over analog, because you can read the results precisely instead of watching a fluctuating needle. Such meters are available at your hardware store, Radio Shack or Harbor Freight. Wearing rubber-soled shoes during this test is important too, especially if the floor is damp or wet. Concrete floors, tile, wood, or carpeting all have the ability to conduct some electricity, and your safety comes first.
If your aquarium and/or your sump have grounding probes installed, you need to remove these prior to the test. The purpose of a grounding probe is to divert stray electricity from an object to the ground wiring of your place of residence. Once the probe has been removed, any electricity in the water will show up as a measurement on the meter.

Two different grounding probes are connected both in the outlet as well as the center screw. These were removed for testing.

This digital voltage meter from Harbor Freight was less than $7 (on sale).

Turn the meter on, and adjust the device to measure 200v AC power. One probe is inserted into the ground hole of a nearby outlet, the other into the water. The reading you want to see is 0. Do this test in the sump as well as the aquarium. Remember that water conducts electricity, so a leaking pump in the display tank will affect the water in the sump because the water in circulation between the two is still in movement. Common sources of electricity are going to be powerheads, heaters, and lighting. If any of these are failing or aren't grounded properly, they need to be repaired or replaced.

Black probe is inserted into the ground hole.

Red probe is placed in water.

If you don't have an outlet close enough to do this test, run an extension cord to where you are working. The cord should have a grounded prong though; an older cord lacking this prong won't work. Also if you are using a pump that has that prong broken off, either accidentally or intentionally, that needs to be resolved. Years ago, people would remove this prong out of annoyance because the nearby outlet didn't have room for three prongs for whatever reason. This type of risky behavior is just begging for disaster.

In speaking to one hobbyist, he told me that water had seeped under the floorboards of his home and into the house wiring beneath. He could feel the shock when simply feeding his tank, to the point that he would stand at a distance to toss the food in. Crazy, but true. Eventually he found out what was happening and had it repaired. In my own tank, I had a number of items leaking power to the combined amount of 48v. One was a still functioning powerhead in my refugium that was over 10 years old. Removing that pump dropped the reading on the meter to 16v. One by one these were all removed or replaced until the system was measuring 0 again.

To determine what item or items are leaking power into the water, turn off every single item. That may require unplugging every cord. With the meter at the ready, plug in one item, and test with the voltage meter as directed above. If the number stays at zero, plug in the next item and retest. When the numbers suddenly jump, that's the culprit. You may discover that a number of items are individually releasing a little power into the system, but as a group it adds up. A few small powerheads leaking a little bit of power isn't a disaster yet, but should be replaced as soon as possible.

In being reasonable, isolate the items causing the problem and determine what can be fixed immediately and what may need to be fixed in a day or two. If the return pump is the cause and yet you can't get a new one until Monday morning, so be it. If it is a cracked or broken heater, it probably should be removed immediately because the metals within can do even more damage if left as is. If the reflector is the cause, screw a (green) ground wire to it and run this to the ballast's grounding screw. As soon as you know what the problem is, you can determine what priority you need to apply to the situation, but it should your top priority. The risk of you or your family getting zapped is important, but your livestock (such as Tangs that will exhibit HLLE symptoms) and corals will decline the longer it goes on. Electricity and saltwater can even arc to the point that a fire may break out causing massive losses to your home and finances. Don't delay!

Grounding probes should be reinstalled once everything has been tested, as they protect you from being shocked. Think of them as a fail-safe backup, not the cure to this problem. Any 6-way power strips that have begun to age or display signs of salt creep need to be replaced before an issue develops. These power strips are relatively cheap, but they do not last forever in salty, humid environments. Check them closely to see any signs of discoloration, cracking, or melting. If you have any doubt at all about it, replace it with a new one.

Lastly, if you have stubborn plugs that are hard to insert or extract from outlets, this product is a wonderful solution that is safe to use. Spray it on the prongs, wipe them off of any excess liquid, and plug it in a few times to lubricate and protect the outlets internal clips. This product is sold in the electrical department at Home Depot.

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What do SPS need? This is what you need to read

melev — Thu, 17 Mar 2022 17:13:40 +0000

What do SPS need? This is what you need to read

Acropora care

melev Thu, 03/17/2022 - 20:13

Acropora sp. - |LF|a-cro-POH-rah; alternate: a-CROP-o-rah|RF| - a species of calcium-based coral that causes frustration and loss of expendable income but brings joy and exuberance to the more detail-oriented caregivers.

At our club meeting recently, I pointed out how keeping Acropora sp. is often considered the pinnacle of reef keeping. Hobbyists yearn for a full-blown tank that holds these colored sticks that grow into such interesting and unique shapes. The question isn't 'if' you can keep them, but rather 'how long' can you keep them alive to the point of enjoying some thriving colonies. Since they come in blue, green, red, orange, purple, yellow, brown and more, a living Acropora-laden reef can be quite the medal of honor if properly cared for.

I purchased my first SPS (small polyped stony) coral in 2002, and it was a Pocillopora. This little colony, no larger than a golf ball, was my starter piece to see if I had the skill to keep hard corals. Even with much to learn, that coral was a hardy one that tolerated the swings in water quality that my 29-gallon reef suffered from. After a few months, I decided to try Acropora as well, and have been keeping them ever since.

A larger tank tends to have more stable parameters, which is where the saying "dilution is the solution to pollution" likely came from. I can firmly state that a larger water volume does help keep pollution levels down, but when those numbers go south it can get costly trying to get them back where they belong. As hobbyists, the biggest impact you'll have on your reef tank has to do with your husbandry skills. The more often you test the water, the better your overview. You'll be quick to make minor adjustments to keep things on track. Another definition for the acronym SPS is "stability promotes success," as SPS definitely thrive under stable conditions.

Acropora sp. come in various forms, from thick branchy types to very frail skeletons. They prefer rock solid parameters. Water temperatures don't vary much in their natural habitat, tending to move no more than one degree per day. Our tanks may go up and down two to three degrees in a 24 hour period, but with careful planning and good equipment it is possible to keep this variance tighter. Some species do better in cooler waters, but most tropical-based species seem to hold up well in tanks that range from 79F to 81F. This is simple a target range; if you prefer to keep your tank from 78F to 80F or 80F to 82F, likely you will have good results. The tanks that drop down to 76F or lower at night only to creep up to 82F or 83F daily - those corals are doing all they can to handle that seven degree swing on a regular basis. I don't recommend it. Please note, cooling fans coupled with timers can easily stabilize those summer months, and heaters connected to controllers will keep the water temperature 'normal' during the colder months.

Lighting continues to be an important part of Acropora keeping. Metal Halides (MH) are still the standard, but T5 lighting has probably taken up 20% of the market share if I had to guess. T5s are preferred because they emit less heat than MH and don't require a taller canopy. Be that as it may, I still believe some tanks would do better if the T5 bulbs were 7" off the water; closer to the water the corals seem to be affected by what continues to be untested UV radiation which likely leads to the pastel colors we see. Metal Halide bulbs are usually kept 9" to 12" off the water, if not higher in high quality reflectors. Anyone can tell the difference between MH and T5 lighting because of how the display appears to the human eye. MH lighting is a focal point that casts a shimmer effect and the reef tank has bright spots and shadows. T5 lighting appears continuous across the entire reef with no variances. Besides these choices, people are beginning to adopt LED lighting for their tanks, and my best advice is to borrow or buy a PAR meter to get some real measurements and avoid burning the corals with intense blasting light. Lift the fixtures higher or run them for shorter periods, gradually increasing the lighting period over multiple weeks until the corals are acclimated to the change. Keep the lights clean ( reflectors, glass shields and the bulb itself ) as spatter and salt film decrease light output that rob your tank of its intended light. Bulb color is a personal choice, but the general rule is 10,000K bulbs promote growth while 20,000K bulbs provide pretty coloration. A combination of bulbs can get the best of both, if you balance them out correctly. Normal lighting for a reef tank should be 9 to 10 hours per day, incorporating a staggered lighting period to include a 'high noon' duration (all lights are on at once blasting the tank) for a few brief hours will provide the best results.

Coral placement is important. How far you distance your SPS corals from the lighting is something you'll learn with time, but often the best choice you can make is place the corals midway down in the aquarium. If they do well for a week or two, move them up a few inches higher and see if they can tolerate the greater PAR your lighting affords them. Find those sweet spots, and watch the corals closely to see if perhaps they'd be better a little further down in the rockwork. A PAR meter helps reduce some of this guesswork, but if we had rock-solid rules, this wouldn't be a hobby. We like to experiment a little. Once you know the spot is good for a coral, be sure to secure it to the rockwork with 2-part putty or Super Glue Gel. SPS corals tend to grow in more quickly when they are affixed firmly, rather than rocking back and forth in the flow. Corals need space to grow out, and if their neighbor is too close, one will usually lose to the other due to chemical warfare as they sting one another.

Flow is critical with Acropora. They need lots of flow to keep their core clean of any detritus which often leads to dying tissue. Once this tissue or skin is gone, nuisance algae is happy to grow in that dead area, spreading out gradually to consume more territory that erodes away more healthy tissue. Acropora colonies often ship in with 'bandit' crabs, commensal crabs that live within the branches and keep the coral clean. They eat tiny predators and ward off attacks by other livestock, but retreat deeply into the coral to avoid becoming a snack. If you get a coral and find such a crab, it would be best to set that little guy aside prior to quarantining and dipping the coral. Once the coral is safe to add to your display, reintroduce the bandit back into the colony and place it in your reef. Getting back to the topic of flow, this is primarily provided with pumps (Vortech, Tunze, Korallia, or Maxijets - these are the four most common choices in the U.S.) that move the water in the display area. Both Vortech and Tunze pumps allow the hobbyist to program in their preferred flow pattern, with chaotic random surges being the ultimate goal. Laminar flow isn't good for Acropora because the coral will simply grow leaning in one direction. Chaotic flow hits the coral from all sides and coupled with good lighting, each particular species of Acropora will grow into its own natural shape: tabling, pear shaped, bushy, branchy, and encrusting to any solid surface it can find.

Water testing is important for Acropora keepers, who test alkalinity, nitrate, calcium, phosphate, magnesium, as well as salinity, temperature and pH. Keeping these numbers as consistent as possible is the goal. If one swings out of range, such as pH, the coral may stress and release stringy mucous into the water in response. If alkalinity drops too low, tissue will peel off the Acropora, usually around the base. Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium are very closely related and must be tested and supplemented continually to replace what the Acropora sp. are taking up from the water. Salinity should always be 1.026sg or 35ppt, and testers should use a calibrated refractometer that was set with 35ppt solution (not RO/DI water!) for accuracy.

Test Type Recommended Parameters matching Natural Sea Water (NSW)

pH 7.9 to 8.3 - this varies from tank to tank; measuring with a Pinpoint Meter or controller is best
Temperature 78° F to 84° F - average reef temperature tends to be ~81°F
Alkalinity 8 to 11 dKH or 2.86 to 3.89 meq/L
Calcium 390 to 450 ppm
Magnesium 1350 - 1400 ppm (or 3x Calcium levels)
Phosphate .03 ppm (leading cause of nuisance algae in your tank)
Ammonia 0 - anything higher is toxic
Nitrite 0 - anything higher is toxic
Nitrate 10 ppm or less (huge water changes bring down nitrates)

Alkalinity and Calcium can be dosed with 2-part buffer solutions or provided with a calcium reactor, and this is a daily requirement for SPS. Magnesium has to be dosed as well, but this one is done every few weeks or longer, based on when the test kits reveals that it has become depleted. Magnesium tends to stay in the water for a long time. Keeping these three in line will keep pH levels up where they belong. Be sure to have current (not old) test kits on hand and use them frequently. Weekly isn't unheard of - its actually a good routine and avoids LRS (Lazy Reefer Syndrome). Be sure to keep a log of those numbers to track trends and learn how to dial in those parameters to maintain optimum conditions.

Phosphate and nitrate levels need to be as low as possible for Acropora sp. Elevated levels stunt their growth and fuel algae growth. Big water changes keep nitrate down, and phosphate removers are abundant to keep that parameter under control. Of course good filtration helps, which is handled with a quality protein skimmer, a refugium for nutrient export, and manually removing any settled waste in the overflows or sump. Rinse out filter socks and sponges often, every three days at least.

Acropora sp. have visible polyps, especially if you have a good macro lens. Each polyp has a mouth that can bring food down its digestive system, and the best free food you can feed this species is fish waste. Feed your fish and when they expel their waste into the water, the corals consume it. Corals that are very pale are usually so because they are starved, either due to a lack of fish or because of amino acid dosing (or due to excess intense lighting for too long a photoperiod). Feed a little more heavily and these corals will color up again.

It doesn't really take special equipment or vast amounts of money to keep these corals, but it doesn't hurt if you have either. Just remember that these are living corals that need your attention and without your TLC, they will decline. This is definitely a challenging species, but anyone that has kept them successfully will tell you it is worth the effort.

Happy reefing!

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How to change a RO membrane

melev — Fri, 07 May 2021 19:40:47 +0000

How to change a RO membrane

These important steps will keep things running as they should

melev Fri, 05/07/2021 - 22:40

The membrane, the heart of the system, is good from one to five years. Water quality in your area directly affects that lifespan*, and I sell replacement membranes.

Some areas have softer water, while others quite the opposite. Source water that measures less than 300 TDS is best; anything higher is harder on the system. Measuring the source water's TDS levels can provide some idea of the conditions you are dealing with. The higher the TDS, the harder the membrane has to work, and decreases its life. Lower TDS-laden water is always better. Keep in mind that those numbers may vary throughout the year, affecting the way your RO system works.

1) Turn off the water going into the RO/DI system.

I installed an extra ball valve (available in my reef shop) in the cold water (red) line, to make it easier to shut off the water. My connection is behind the washing machine, and honestly I'd rather turn off the water to the entire house than try to get behind the washing machine. Thus this little modification made my life much easier. PLUS if you go on vacation, it might be wise to turn off the water going to the RO unit to avoid a potential disaster.

2) Open the valve after the DI to release the pressure trapped in the system.

3) Remove the blue tubing leading to the Tee fitting (pictured below) to avoid possible damage to those fittings.

4) Remove the main RO unit from the wall.

5) Disconnect the red tubing going into the right side of the RO membrane housing.

6) Disconnect the blue tubing going into the left side of the RO membrane housing.

7) Disconnect the black tubing, being careful not to lose the flow restrictor located in the end of the black tubing.

8) Carefully remove the white membrane housing from the clips affixed to the metal bracket.

Opening the housing may be difficult. Soaking the right end in hot water for a few minutes may help. Large channel lock pliers and a helper is another option, or use strap wrenches. Once the cap is unscrewed, access to the old membrane is now possible.

9) Using pliers, grip the plastic center rod carefully and gently pull the membrane out of the housing.

The above membrane was in my own RO/DI for over 5 years. The membrane was 'telescoping' to the left as water forced its way through, so much that it forced the black rubber gasket down the body of the membrane!

Next, open up the new membrane packaging, and verify that the new one and the old one match both in look and in length. If the membranes are off even by a 1/4" in length, it may not work in your system. The one I sell is the correct one for this system. (Pictured is an older membrane brand; I now offer the CSM brand.)

10) Insert the new membrane with the double black orings end going in first.

Do not force the membrane in. It should slide in easily. If some help is necessary, a little cooking oil on the orings as well as the black rubber gasket will allow it to slip in without damage to the membrane. If the membrane telescopes as it is inserted, it is being damaged.

Press it in fully so it is completely seated in the housing. Don't hammer it in. Making sure the large black O-ring is in the cap, screw it back onto the housing hand-tight. No wrench is necessary.

11) Reinstall the housing on to the RO system's metal bracket.

12) Reconnect the red tubing to the right end of the membrane.

13) Reconnect the blue and black tubing to the left end of the housing. Make sure the flow restrictor is still inside the black tubing as you press it into the fitting.

14) Reconnect the blue tubing to the Tee fitting leading to the DI section.

15) Turn on the water going to the RO system. Check system for any leaks.

Let the unit run for about one hour (5 gallons worth) to wash out the food grade preservatives, but not through the DI resin. The system is now ready to be used again, and the new membrane should last one to five years. It should last several years, but some areas of the U.S. simply destroy membranes at one year unfortunately.

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I want to set up a saltwater tank!

melev — Fri, 02 Apr 2021 06:19:55 +0000

I want to set up a saltwater tank! melev Fri, 04/02/2021 - 09:19

You're ready to take the plunge into saltwater at last. No doubt you've already heard a number of opinions by now, but have decided to forge ahead and do this. Good, this is a wonderful hobby and the experience of watching your hard work turn into something stunning is what this is all about. Let me be honest though, there are times when your frustration level may peak, which is the exact opposite of the 'relaxing hobby' you were hoping for. That's just part of the experience, and remember that period is temporary.

If you haven't read these articles yet, please do:

The Basics: https://melevsreef.com/articles/new-hobby-here-are-basics
How to Cycle your tank: https://melevsreef.com/articles/how-cycle-aquarium
The very important Clean Up Crew: https://melevsreef.com/articles/get-clean-crew-cuc-your-reef
What is that thing? My Critter ID page helps: https://melevsreef.com/creatures

Equipment matters

You can start your system up using all new gear or you can save a bundle and buy it used. New usually means scratch-free, quality gear with a warranty while used stuff may need to be cleaned up, repaired, or constantly tinkered with. I've purchased used tanks several times, but obviously my preference is everything brand new, shiny and typically higher-end merchandise. I like the pricy stuff because it tends to last longer, has a better warranty where you actually get help when an issue arises, and it looks to be better made. Cheap pumps are cheap for a reason, and if you go that route, just buy extras and throw them in the closet so you have a backup or two when it conks out. People that defend cheaper pumps to me, or that tell me I'm overspending... well, I can use the same pumps for nearly a decade, replacing small bits if they wear out, while the bargain pumps often are going to be disposible -- and keep an eye out that you don't get zapped by bad wiring (yes, it happens). This is why I prefer better quality products, and look for the UL listing on the power cords. I don't want this article to turn into a cheap versus expensive rant, so I will leave that up to you. My biggest piece of advice is to save up for the thing you actually want, rather than buying something now just to get by. Those that do end up rebuying more gear within the first year, which costs more money. Buy once by buying wisely.

Regarding lighting, I have a youtube video on this topic. The main point is how long the lights should run daily. No matter what type of lighting you choose to use, be it LEDs, T5 HO bulbs, Metal Halides, or a combination thereof, you will have to watch the livestock closely to determine the proper intensity. Many people ask for examples of other people's schedules, intensity levels, and color choices. Even when you have all that information, it's still going to take some effort on your part to find the sweet spot and this make take you weeks to zero in upon. Watching the livestock is a good indicator, but corals can bleach from a lack of light as well as by too much light. If you measure the lighting with a PAR meter, you can eliminate some of the guesswork. 100-200 PAR is to be expected on the sandbed, 300-400 PAR midway, and I'd suggest nothing higher than 600 PAR just beneath the surface -- and any corals that are in that hot spot are likely used to it and have adapted. You can't take a new coral and put it in a nuclear zone and expect it to thrive. Every new coral I get goes on the sand after it has been dipped for pests, and left there for a week or more. Then I'll move it up to a new spot higher in the tank for another couple of weeks, and finally after a month it may go in the prime spot if the coral seems to be doing well. Here are some links about lighting for you to review:

How long should you run your lights? Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ebxZqaayTU
How to measure PAR: https://melevsreef.com/articles/par-measuring-lighting-intensity-meter
My Radion lighting schedule explained: https://melevsreef.com/my-tanks/my-radion-schedule-programming

Know your water quality

The only way to keep your livestock healthy is to test the parameters, and there are about eight that you want to track. Test them weekly, keep a detailed log, and observe how everything trends over time. One point that needs to be clear: the more stable the parameters, the better. Alkalinity, for example, should be somewhere between 8 and 11 dKH. That does NOT mean it can waver from 8 to 11 week after week. Pick a spot within those digits, and keep it there. If it's 9 dKH, then week after week it should measure 9. If it creeps up to 9.5, dose a little less alkalinity daily; if it is 8.5 then you need to increase the dosage. As corals grow in and the reef starts to fill in, weekly testing will help you determine how much you need to increase the daily dosage to keep up with the demand. When purchasing fish, it may say the fish has been found in water temperatures between 76° and 82° F. If you keep your aquarium at 78.5°, that fish should do well. Most experienced hobbyists will work hard to keep numbers as tight as possible, avoiding any large swings whatsoever. Salinity, temperature, alkalinity - these three are really imporant. But you absolutely can't ignore Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphate, Nitrate, and keep a cursory eye on pH, ORP, and possibly Ammonia (especially if something dies in your aquarium). Water quality is essential to success, so don't be lazy. Oh, and one mistake I see often is people adding pH buffer all the time trying to bring that up. Read that second article for sure after you read the first one:

Maintaining Water Quality: https://melevsreef.com/articles/maintaining-good-water-quality
Don't chase pH!! https://melevsreef.com/articles/dont-chase-ph
How do do water changes properly: https://melevsreef.com/articles/how-mix-change-saltwater-correctly
Never hook up a RO/DI directly to your sump: https://melevsreef.com/articles/never-plumb-ro-unit-your-sump

A living biotope

Years ago, everyone set up their aquariums with live rock. We wanted rocks covered in colorful sponges, hitchhiker clams, worms, starfish, crabs, and featherdusters. We used live sand to make sure the substrate was healthy, ready to deal with detritus and excess food. These days, people are more prone to buying dry sand, dry rock, fearing anything and everything will invade the aquarium and kill their stuff. This is an over-reaction that has cheated hobbyists out of the enjoyment of discovering cool critters that usually surface after lights out. This is an active ecosystem. It will make some noise, it will do things you don't expect, and it does not resemble a stagnant lifeless display in a museum. Just like a beautiful home transforms into a lived-in space as a family grows, your reef is filled with life, seen and unseen. Bacteria abounds, invertebrates and pods creep about the rockwork, and waste is consumed and processed, helping the system stay clean. The lack of necessary creatures creates an imbalance which leads to problems later. It's understandable to save money using dry rock, and it may even be eco-friendly by not taking rock from the ocean, but there is plenty of live rock being aqua-cultured specifically for our hobby, curing quietly in the ocean for months. Don't fear it. Some vendors have even pressure-washed the rock clean just because people's concerns with hithhikers. Such a shame. Ironically, those same people see neat things at the fish store like sponges, tiny anemones, filter feeders and commensal crabs and want them, when they could have come in on the rock in the first place. Every tank I've set up since 1998 was set up with live rock, and yes I've had to deal with a variety of pests. When you purchase snails, hermits and shrimp, you don't quarantine those... and yet it is actually possible something could sneak in on those, albight rare. If you end up with some pest in your tank, there are solutions. Never overreact; just find out what needs to be done, make sure it's a reasonable method you can live with, and work the problem until it is resolved. One last point about dry rock, if that is the direction you have decided upon: you will see it go through several algae phases over the first six months, and it will take nine months or longer to get to the point of becoming "live" with the ability to help with denitrification. All it is at first is a structure to place things upon, nothing more. Be sure you get a serious clean up crew so you don't look at your tank in despair, and add livestock g r a d u a l l y so you don't overtax the system.

Quarantine and Dips: https://melevsreef.com/articles/quarantine-dips
Keep your tank algae-free with a Clean Up Crew: https://melevsreef.com/articles/get-clean-crew-cuc-your-reef
DIY project: Support your aquascape with acrylic: http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/393-Avoid-a-rockslide-with-an-acrylic-support-system

Feeding many mouths

Feeding fish is obvious, but there are lots of choices. Frozen, dry sheet algae, pellet, flake, and even chilled liquids are available. If you like to feed often, feed smaller portions. If you only have a couple of fish in your new aquarium, you can cut a frozen cube of fishfood in half, and save the other half for later or the next day. My aquarium gets food three times a day; when people tell me they only feed their aquarium every other day or even longer, I just want to ask them how often do *they* eat each day?! Corals have mouths too. LPS corals can be target fed, turning off the pumps for a 10 minute period so the tentacles can capture and draw the food in. Corals will also eat the fish waste that is broadcast into the aquarium. Many corals open up after lights out while the fish sleep, tiny polyps trapping particulates during those dark hours.

Feeding your reef Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyC8_ZFbhcs
Proper feeding methods: https://melevsreef.com/articles/proper-feeding-methods

Effort versus results

If you've set up your system properly with reliable equipment and you stay observant, odds are you can maintain a healthy reef working about two hours a week. Daily you may need to make tiny tweaks to assure all is well, and check on the protein skimmer, draining the cup as needed. Each weekend you'll spend some time doing water tests, cleaning the glass and surrounding area. Once or twice a month you'll perform a water change and clean the circulation pumps. The rest of the time, you'll be transfixed with your system, comparing it to others you've found online, visiting fish stores, thinking about what you'd like to get next, and deciding what you can afford. Avoid the tendency to neglect your tank, because the longer you ignore it, the more time you'll need to restore it. By keeping up with the smallest issues, you'll avoid the big hurdles. Also, try to plan ahead, thinking about what can and will go wrong, and prepare for that. Do you have spare parts on hand, plenty of salt for water changes, dips to treat new corals, batteries in case the power goes out? Do you have a friend you can call if things get dicey, or that can watch your aquarium when you travel for work or a vacation? An aquarium is a pet like a dog or cat, and it needs daily attention. Most of the time is for enjoyment, while part of the time is work to make it something worth sharing with others.

No matter what size you choose, try to give it your full attention. The more tanks you add, the more work you'll create for yourself. The bigger the system, the bigger the commitment in time and money. I really enjoyed my 29g reef, and I maintained that aquarium for 7 years. I had a 3g pico reef for 6 months. The angled tank was a popular one to many that followed my website, and it ran for about three years. My 280g reef was my favorite, and it lasted six years before the silicone let go. My 400g is my pride and joy, and the 60g Anemone Cube was included in that build because I love clownfish. This is a hobby about patience and watching things grow. Some corals may burst with growth, while others may seem to be in idle-mode. The fish you select will be in your care for many years. Clownfish can live to be 25 years or more. Tangs can live to be 30-40 years. Spock, the naso tang in this next picture, has been with me since 2004, as has 'Crown Royal' the purple tang.

There is still so much more to tell you, but this seems like a good stopping point. Melev's Reef has many articles which can be accessed from the main navigation bar, via site map, or the search button. When you have a question, type it in google and add melev to the query, and you'll quickly find my answers here, on ReefAddicts.com, other forums, youtube, or possibly social media. I've been sharing my knowledge with everyone for a long time, and odds are I've documented it at some point. Read my blogs, and be sure to subscribe to my Youtube channel.

Also, remember when you google stuff, add melev to your query for anything I may have answered in the past:

Happy reefing! You're gonna love it.

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Maintaining Good Water Quality

melev — Thu, 01 Apr 2021 05:07:17 +0000

Maintaining Good Water Quality melev Thu, 04/01/2021 - 08:07

I have read countless threads on discussion forums asking for assistance with water quality issues. Considering how many forums are available to hobbyists everywhere, it wouldn’t be difficult to imagine that hundreds of queries are posted on a daily basis just in the United States. With the availability of search engines, the information is readily available having been answered time and time again. Why is it so hard to master this particular area of our hobby? Are our personal circumstances so uniquely different from everyone else’s? Perhaps it is simply easier to ask the question and wait for a direct answer, but there is a chance that the answer won’t be accurate due to the responder’s inexperience or due to a lack of initial detail. Finally, how do you gauge if the answer or answers are correct? Since you asked the question, you don’t have the information to judge those answers, which means you have to decide if you can believe the respondents. I’ve also heard people say that they prefer not to get information from the internet, but I disagree. We have a huge knowledge base a few keystrokes away, and turning to it has become a way of life.

By researching a question via Google, it allows you to read an abundant amount of recommendations gathered up over time. Obtaining a better overview of possible solutions helps you judge the knowledge pool, instead of a very narrow sampling proffered in a single discussion. We’ve all asked questions no matter how long we’ve been in the hobby. Personal experience has taught each of us some lessons that were learned the hard way, at the expense to both our beloved livestock and our bank accounts. Most hobbyists try to inform others of mistakes made in an effort to help prevent similar happenings to their fellow reef keepers. We can be a protective bunch, usually erring on the side of caution. Yes, message boards are good in that way, opening the way for intelligent discussion, but let’s not forget to check the archives and compare notes.

Is there a simple solution to maintaining good water quality? Not exactly, but here are some steps that will help:

Source water
Decent Test kits
Frequency of testing
Dosing accordingly
Optional methodology
Longterm results

One point to consider before going any further: How is your livestock doing? How does everything look? Is the system clean, or overrun with algae? Are the corals healthy and thriving? Are the fish exhibiting any issues? If everything looks good, don’t make radical changes because of something you read or heard.

Source water
This can never be emphasized enough. The water you use in your aquarium needs to be the best you can provide as it is basis of the entire ecosystem. The absolute best choice is to purchase your own RO/DI (reverse osmosis de-ionizer) system. Having pure water at the ready is useful both daily and in an emergency. Additional reading: Why should you use RO/DI water?

Tap water contains all kinds of stuff designed to make it safe for human consumption, but based on some Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) measurements provided to me from people across this nation, there are areas where that isn’t true at all. If your TDS measures over 500, it isn’t considered safe for human consumption, yet people in Arizona are measuring 1200 - 1500 in some places. One suburb 45 minutes from me measures 800 while where I live it is less than 180. What about filtered ocean water? Some hobbyists have this readily available, but water quality can vary depending on who’s in charge of maintaining filtration. Suffice it to say, the more you can control how the water is filtered, the better. Owning your own RO/DI system that you maintain is ideal. Change those filters regularly and test the water to make sure it is producing perfect levels. If you let this decline due to lack of attentiveness, it will only come back to haunt you with frustrating issues in your aquarium.

Get one today from melevsreef.com: http://www.melevsreef.com/catalog/rodi-systems-filters-0

For a reef tank, we mix RO/DI water with the salt mix of choice. There are many to choose from and people debate and defend various brands often. I’ve used Kent, Oceanic, Instant Ocean, Red Sea, and Sybon. For my new tank, I’ve decided to use Sybon salt exclusively, based upon how well it mixes and the measurable results I’ve gotten from batch after batch.

Salinity - The best tool to measure salinity is a refractometer that has been properly calibrated. These cost $40 and up, and the 35ppt calibration solution is less than $10. A few drops on the glass slide allows you to view the salinity precisely. The target range for a reef tank is 1.026 sg or 35ppt. Buy a refractometer and use it often.

Test kits
I’m not brand loyal to any one line, and recommend getting the best kit for each of the elements we test for. If you happen to colorblind, you will want to seek out digital measuring devices like the new ones offered by Hanna.

pH: Your best option is a pH meter or an aquarium controller that uses a pH probe. Digital measurements will always supersede what a test kit or dip strip will tell you. Digital readouts update as you watch, and having a probe that you can move from tank to tank allows you the freedom to make sure all your systems are within the target range. The ideal range would be 8.1 to 8.3 each day. If your tank’s pH reads below 7.6 or over 8.5, something needs to be corrected. pH readings will be at their lowest early in the morning and at their highest near the end of the lighting period. I glance at the pH level of my tank often, but it is not a critical number I worry about. It is what it is because of the other elements in the water that have been ionically balanced.

The Aquacontroller 3 displays the current measurements at all times.

Alkalinity: I’ve used Salifert, Elos, Tropic Marin, and API to measure for this. This kit is usually affordable, easy to perform and easy read. The target range is 8 to 11 dKH, or 2.86 to 3.89 meq/l. Test this one frequently, weekly at the minimum. Alkalinity is taken up by the corals and fish in your tank, and needs to be replenished daily. The most used kit in my arsenal, to be sure.

Calcium: Salifert’s kit is my preferred test kit for this element. Calcium levels should be checked weekly, and this too is taken up by both livestock and even coralline algae so it needs to be dosed daily. The target range is 390 to 425 ppm. Higher levels of calcium can be hard on some livestock, and to bring this number down simply don’t dose further for a few days and continue measuring with a kit to determine when dosing should resume.

Magnesium: Salifert again is the kit I continue to use. I’ve tried others, but this one has always worked reliably. The target range is three times the calcium level for balanced ionic levels, but I simply suggest keeping it between 1380 and 1400 ppm because that is what seems too keep Montipora sp colored up. If magnesium levels are low, it will take a lot of product to raise it up but once the target level has been achieved, it tends to stay there for a good while. For my reef, I probably dose Mg four times a year.

If salinity, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium are at their proper levels, pH will usually take care of itself. I don’t recommend dosing anything to make the pH a different number necessarily, but rather encourage you to verify that the alk-ca-mg levels are still on target. There are caveats to this, such as depressed pH due to excess CO2 in the home, but usually bringing in fresh air into your home will help correct this. Some have connected airline tubing from outdoors to their skimmer’s venturi intake lines to achieve this, which is useful in colder climates with homes that are sealed up tight.

Note: Whenever you dose anything to your system, remember that you don’t have to dose it all at once. For alkalinity or calcium dosing, it should trickle in slowly in an area of high flow. For magnesium, it would be better to dose a portion daily rather than the full dose to reach the desired level (recommendation: maximum 100ppm rise per day). If you are using buffer to raise pH, mix up the powder in 8 oz of water and gradually add some to the tank while watching the pH meter’s display. Add some then wait 15 minutes or longer before adding more, so the impact will be lessened on your livestock. Test the water after an hour or two to see how the dosage affected the corresponding levels. It’s best to only dose what you can test for, and dosing should never result in tank drama. Dramatic changes can leave fish gasping and corals sliming due to stress.

Nitrate: API’s test kit is simple to use, it’s affordable and easy to read. The lower the nitrate, the better. Less than 5ppm would be a good goal, and even lower would be great. Nitrate is in the water, and big water changes done frequently will bring these down.

Phosphate: Salifert or Elos kits are both easy to use. The target range is .03 ppm and anything more than that needs to be controlled to avoid nuisance algae.

Temperature: Aquarium controllers measure tank temperature, or you can buy a digital thermometer as well as a cheaper glass one. From time to time, compare multiple thermometers to make sure they are reading accurately and equally. Tank temperature is important to maintain, and the target range I suggest is 79F to 81F. This two degree range is where my previous reef flourished. The controller I use turns the heaters on if the tank drops below 78F at night and brings it back up to 79F. As the lights run all day, the tank temperature rises gradually, and during the night it cools off.

ORP: Using an aquarium controller, the ORP (REDOX potential) measurement is constantly reported on the screen. The number itself isn’t overly important but what is is the consistency of that number. For example, if it normally is around 315 and then suddenly it crashes to 200 or less, something has changed and an investigation as to why needs to be performed immediately. People that run ozone watch this number closely to avoid overdosing the tank with too much, setting their controller to shut off ozone at a predetermined peak level. I don’t run ozone, so I would suggest that this number should read between 310 and 340 but again it isn’t a precise attainable number. Just one to keep an eye on to see if it varies all of a sudden, possibly due to dosing something that day. A lowered number indicates lower dissolved oxygen levels.

Sampling from a single week via Aquanotes App

Nitrite & Ammonia: These are usually only tested when a tank is initially set up, when uncured live rock is cycling, or when livestock starts dying in our tank. When death and decay occurs, measuring nitrite and ammonia is important because elevated levels are toxic to fish and corals alike. The target range is always zero.

Iodine: Iodine doesn't last long in our tanks, but it is included in the salt mix. I've used a few Iodine test kits, but the results were spotty. Shrimp and crabs need iodine to help them molt (shed their exoskeleton), so dosing it weekly would be good. Lugol's Solution is offered under many brand names, and 1 drop per 50g best. Don't overdose iodine in your tank; don't even hold the bottle over your display or sump while dosing because a small spill will do major harm. When I dosed a single drop to my 29g reef many years ago, it seemed like nothing. Adding one more drop, my fish were suddenly gasping and appeared to be very distressed. How could I retract that drop?! Please be careful with iodine.

Testing Frequency
The above measurements are what I test for and watch frequently. Try to make it a routine, such as “Test Kit Saturday” or something similar. Record those numbers in a spreadsheet or a smartphone Application to be able to review your water parameter history. When things go wrong, the usual excuses are that the person didn’t test diligently in some time, their test kit ran out and they didn’t buy a new one yet, or their test kit is way past expiration. Try to make a mental note (or a physical one!) when a kit is getting low to pick up a new one next time you are at a fish store or ordering online.

Many kits have an expiration date. When I open a new kit for the first time, I write that date with a Sharpie on the box. Most kits are good for 12 months after you break the seal on bottles. If you are still using a kit that you purchased in 2007 just because it still has some test solution left, please trash it now and buy a replacement. Surely the total investment in your reef justifies the small cost of a fresh kit.

Another quality control step that you might consider is to test some water with both the old kit and the new one to see if the results are close to the same. Occasionally a brand new kit can be faulty, and false results could cause you to panic and overdose a product in a hurry to ‘fix’ what is allegedly wrong. If the number is really strange, ask a local hobbyist to test your water with their kit or head to the local fish store with a fresh water sample and have them double check those numbers with their kits. While you are at it, bring your test kit along and show them how you test to make sure you are doing it correctly. It never hurts to confirm your methods occasionally. If the store charges a fee to perform some tests, don’t balk at the idea. Just pay them for their time and get the answers you seek.

Dosing Accordingly
The aquarium is going to require regular replenishment of alkalinity and calcium, and occasionally magnesium. With frequent water changes, the new water may contain enough of these elements to take care of that demand, but the only way to know for sure is to test the water in the display tank. Also, test the newly mixed saltwater, especially each time a new bag or bucket of salt has been opened. Never assume the batch is fine, test and know for a fact that everything is normal.

As your reef matures, the demand will be ever greater for alkalinity and calcium. Ten years ago, everyone wanted a calcium reactor. These days, the preference has swung to two-part dosing. Is one better than the other? It comes down to preference. A calcium reactor has an initial setup cost of $500 or more, but after that the cost is minimal. CO2 refills and more reactor media are both very inexpensive. The benefit of a calcium reactor is the replenishment is done 24 hours a day. Two-part dosing costs less up front, but it is more labor intensive in that the person has to continue mixing up a batch of each part and replenishing those containers once depleted. With timers, dosing pumps and a controller, each solution can be dosed to the tank at regular intervals. With smaller tanks (55g and under), two-part dosing is probably the best choice, but for larger systems that require more product, I would prefer to use a reactor. I know a number of large tank (200g+) owners that dose two-part. Those huge exhibits in public aquariums use calcium reactors.

Which is more risky of the two? If the calcium reactor fails (too much CO2 injected; recirculation pump fails; feed pump fails), the media within is ruined and it has to be replaced. This would cost $10 to $25 to correct, and it is back in business. The tank would hardly skip a beat unless this wasn’t noticed for weeks on end, but with weekly water tests, it would be hard to miss. The media in the reactor would turn milky white. If the two part dosing system fails (runs out of solution; doesn’t shut off and adds too much), the reef would be affected negatively due to the huge swing in Alkalinity or Calcium levels. When you are out of town and someone has to watch your system, I think it would be easier to have them double check the output of the calcium reactor versus them knowing if the two-part dosing system was operating correctly.

Kalkwasser dosing is another method used to maintain alkalinity and calcium levels, but there is a risk of overdosing if too much is added at one time. I would say the majority of hobbyists do not use kalkwasser, as it has become less popular due in part to the many posted horror stories. In addition, pumps can seize up from the calcium deposits that adhere to their magnets, requiring more frequent cleanings after a vinegar bath soaking. The safest way to dose kalkwasser is to drip it into your tank for a specific duration during the night, completely separate from a top-off system. How much to drip is something each hobbyist would have to determine by measuring water parameters daily. Kalkwasser has a pH of 12, and too much will cause the pH of the tank to rise sharply. If an overdose occurs, white vinegar can be used to bring it back down. Please do your research and know how much vinegar you’d need to use to correct an accidental overdose BEFORE it happens. Type it up and stick it near your tank so you can find it quickly in an emergency. Like the Boy Scout’s motto: Be Prepared.

Optional Methodology
An area every hobbyist struggles with is water pollution. Our reef is full of hungry reeflings and we enjoy their response to feedings. The more we feed, the more quickly water quality worsens. Two measurements we test for are Nitrate and Phosphate, because we know these fuel algae growth. To combat these, we have several options. Some are perfect for newbies, while others are better suited for seasoned aquarists that have learned the nuances of their tank and can see issues just by looking at a few specific corals. Algae Turf Scrubbers (ATS), Refugiums, Carbon dosing, Product dosing, Denitrifying reactors, NP reactors, GFO reactors are some of the weapons of choice, and of course those never ending water changes.

For newbies (those that are new to the hobby):
A refugium with macro algae will taken up some of the nitrate (NO3) and phosphate (PO4) from the water, reducing the likelihood of nuisance algae growing in the display tank. By growing out “weeds” in the refugium zone, hair algae is less likely to take over the reef display. Cull out 25% or more algae from the refugium monthly to encourage more growth. The refugium needs a light source for the plants to grow, resulting in the benefit of additional oxygen (O2) in the water thanks to photosynthesis. Run that light at night when the reef is a rest to help keep pH levels up during the late night hours. With a refugium, regular water changes and a bunch of snails in your display tank, PO4 and NO3 should be controllable and nuisance algae should be preventable.

Algae Turf Scrubbers are beginning to make a comeback. They were quite popular in Australia for a long time. A perforated plastic sheet is set up at an angle in a section of the sump and water cascades down the slope. A bright light shines upon that plastic, causing algae to grow. Each week, the algae is scraped off and disposed of, removing NO3 and PO4 that was taken up by the hair algae. An ATS can be a little messy because of salt creep splashing around the affected area, and it may be a little bit noisy depending on the setup. It has to be maintained and tended to for it be effective.

GFO (granular ferric oxide) reactors are popular with many hobbyists, who use them to lower PO4 levels in their tank. GFO is basically rust particles that the phosphates adhere to. Using a Two Little Fishies’ Phosban Reactor or similar apparatus, water is gently pushed through the GFO media. What comes out of the reactor should be phosphate-free water. Running a GFO reactor around the clock should be able to reduce and eliminate measurable PO4 entirely. If the PO4 level in the tank is .25ppm and the output of the reactor is .03ppm or less, it is working. If the two are the same, it isn’t working and the reactor needs to be adjusted to slow the output until it comes out with that zero reading we desire. Once a week, the reactor needs a ‘puff’ of water surged through the media to avoid it becoming clumped or brick-like. Systems running high levels of alkalinity usually encounter GFO clumping, so the 15 second surge can help prevent this. GFO is usually good for one to three months before needing to be replaced. Caution needs to be taken that the ‘fines’ (GFO dust) doesn’t find its way back into the display, as some corals get stung by these. GFO should be well rinsed prior to being installed on the system, and the output or effluent could be directed to flow over some filterfloss to trap any fines that made it out of the reactor.

Phosphate Rx or Phosbuster Pro are liquid products that remove PO4 virtually overnight. The correct amount is dosed to the tank, causing the PO4 to turn to a solid. The tank will appear to be cloudy, and that will be exported via a protein skimmer or a 100 micron filter sock. I’ve used both products for several years and have never had any losses (fish, corals, invertebrates). I prefer to dose this flocculant late at night when the fish are at rest, and by morning the tank is crystal clear and PO4 measures zero.

Carbon can be used to improve water clarity and to reduce organics in the water, but it must be changed out frequently, as in weekly. 1/2 a cup of GAC (granulated activated carbon) per 50g of water in a Phosban reactor is a great way to keep the water looking sparkling clean with no green tinge.

Kent’s Nitrate Sponge or Seachem’s Matrixx media are designed to soak up nitrate from the water. These can be used in a canister filter or a mesh bag. Nitrate Sponge needs to be used for 48 hours, then taken off the system where Matrixx can be used indefinitely. Depending on the level of NO3 in the system determines how much media is needed and how effective it can be. Kent’s Nitrate Sponge is aluminum-based which can affect leather corals adversely, and it can take weeks for them to recover.

Seasoned Aquarists (you know who you are):
Vodka, Sugar, and or Vinegar dosing has proven to work at reducing nitrate and phosphate. It’s a slow process as the tank has to adapt to the daily dose of any or all of these three products. Each week, the dose is slightly increased. I dosed Vodka in my 280g reef for 7 months before seeing any change in NO3 or PO4 levels, but at last it worked. It dropped the NO3 levels from 65ppm to 0 in about two weeks’ time once I finally hit that dosing threshold. Vodka (or VSV) dosing is for the most patient of hobbyists, but it allows them to feed more heavily and enjoy better water clarity. Corals perk up because they are getting more light than previously when the water was a tad murky, for lack of a better term. Decreased nitrate levels produce stunning corals. Essential reading: Dosing Vodka - Why?

Zeovit / Prodibio / Biofuel and other bacterial dosing systems coupled with the dosing of Amino Acids can result in beautiful reefs, but it is for those that want to dose a drop of this and a touch of that on a daily basis like a mad scientist creating his own personal monster. It requires careful attention to dosing each additive, and many pin a dosing schedule to their cabinet door to make sure they stay on track and don’t omit anything that could make their efforts take a step backwards. It’s a tightrope that some can glide across easily, but their experience in the hobby helps them look for signs of trouble that a newbie wouldn’t spot so easily.

Denitrifying reactors are designed with an anoxic zone that depletes NO3 levels in the water. Within the reactor, the water moves so slowly through it that the oxygen levels drop, and an adaptive type of bacteria consumes the nitrate. Usually sulfur based, although I did see a vodka-based reactor by Deltec two years ago, these reactors need to be fine tuned by the owner, and they must be plugged into a Uninterrupted Power Supply (a UPS for a computer) in case of a power outage. If the reactor is powerless for over 30 minutes, bad things happen quickly within so the UPS is a form of insurance.

Biopellets are the newest craze for the reduction of NO3 and PO4. A media reactor is necessary, and it is filled up with a specified amount of NP (nitrate/phosphate) pellets that tumble gently. These polymer-based pellets become populated with bacteria, which slowly consumes the media over time. Hobbyists are still trying to determine how well they work, including myself. Biopellets should keep NO3 and PO4 at bay, while allowing more frequent feedings. So far, it’s working well for my 400g but my tank is young.

NextReef reactor filled with Vertex biopellets

Longterm Results
Armed with information above, you can choose to use what applies to your system and your level of experience. However, proper husbandry is equal no matter how long you’ve been in this hobby. If you become lazy or complacent, if you have test kits but don’t use them, if you have a refractometer but don’t calibrate it, if you have probes but don’t clean them, your tank will suffer.   Be proactive rather than reactive. Get passionate. Double check results and don’t make assumptions. Yes, you can look at a Birdsnest colony in your tank to tell if the water’s nitrate level has risen, or the Xenia population to know that alkalinity has gone askew. You can look at the coralline growth to know you have adequate calcium, but is your skimmer working efficiently? Have you checked the impeller magnets to make sure they are in good condition, not cracked and exposing rusty innards? What about the magnets holding that encrusted frag rack in your tank? Are they in good shape, or do they need replacing? Is your sump vacuumed clean of detritus, as well as the overflows? Are the Tunzes, Vortechs or other flow pumps in need of a vinegar bath? Are the RO and saltwater mixing barrels clean, or have you put that off too long? Are you still testing your newly mixed saltwater to make sure it has the same standards now that you originally set? Are your test kits in dire need of replacing?

Go nuts and clean up your system. It’s so much fun to work around a brand new tank because everything is clean and shiny. Clean up your current setup and get that new look back. It will be a lot of work if the tank has been neglected for some time, but thereafter you’ll be motivated once again, and you may notice some things that need your immediate attention -- before they can fail on you at an inconvenient time. Aquarium husbandry is a term to describe the person caring for the system. Are you being a good caregiver? If you are, your water quality should be in good shape.

And your reef will reward you with beauty day after day.

Additional reading:
Chemistry And The Aquarium: Solving Calcium And Alkalinity Problems

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Plumb a single overflow to two zones

melev — Tue, 30 Jun 2020 17:50:55 +0000

Plumb a single overflow to two zones melev Tue, 06/30/2020 - 20:50

A tank with a single overflow can still run to two zones of a sump. I recommend running the drainline into both the skimmer section and the refugium zone, and I'm often asked how this is accomplished. Using gravity and a few extra fittings, you can direct water to two different zones from a single drain pipe.

I was able to demonstrate this configuration in my booth at MACNA 2012. These images capture the method, using a tee fitting, some elbows and a ball valve. Initial plumbing will take an extra 20 minutes of your time but lasts the lifespan of your setup until you opt to upgrade.

The drainline in this example was made with 1" plumbing and a slip/slip 1" bulkhead. A 2" piece of 1" PVC was glued into the bulkhead, then a Tee fitting, then another 2" piece of PVC, then the ball valve. Another 2" piece of PVC was glued into the ball valve, and this was pressed into the sump's receiving bulkhead. Within the sump, a 5" PVC pipe directed water into the bubble tower to stop microbubbles, control splashing and keep the sump quiet. See this next picture to understand the assembly.

The ball valve controls how much water drains into the skimmer section. As the ball valve is closed, water is forced back up the pipe and runs out the horizontal pipe of the Tee fitting to run to the refugium zone. If the ball valve is fully open, no water goes to the refugium. If the ball valve is fully closed, all water flows to the refugium. The ball valve is the key to controlling water flow in the two zones. I recommend 75% of the tank's raw water run into the skimmer section, and 25% to the refugium zone.

In the picture above, the collection cup of the skimmer was moved aside to show the horizontal PVC running to the right end of th sump, to drain into the refugium. And elbow was installed at mid-water level to allow air to breathe out of the pipe and keep the surface of the refugium zone rippling. Do not install the refugium drain under water; do as directed & pictured.

** Please note the 45° fitting that was necessary for the drain pipe to navigate around the return line running from the return pump back up to the tank.

And here's the final product. This is a very clean look, allows for two different water levels in a single sump, and it all works with a single drain. With your own tank, odds are you'll have much more space to work with, as the tank's stand will be significantly taller than my example setup at the conference.

All fittings were glued with clear PVC primer and PVC cement. As the pipes were glued into the fittings, the extra glue was wiped around the fitting with a fingertip to create a fillet of cement to assure no leaks. Often I read about poeple dealing with microbubbles with new plumbing and glue, but the tank ran bubble free immediately because of the way my sump is designed and how the glue was applied 24 hours prior to the event.

Additional information:
The skimmer used is a Reef Octopus Cone skimmer, and a Mag 5 return pump was perfectly matched for the 40g breeder atop the steel powdercoated stand. During the show, I had to use two 100w Cobalt heaters to maintain proper temperature in the somewhat chilly exhibitors hall. ClearFX Pro was used to assure excellent water clarity throughout the event.

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150gpd RODI Installation Instructions

melev — Tue, 30 Jun 2020 17:45:32 +0000

150gpd RODI Installation Instructions melev Tue, 06/30/2020 - 20:45

Congratulations! Your reef will thank you for providing excellent water quality from now on. This 100gpd 5-stage RO/DI is very easy to install, but if you have any further questions, you can email me any time. Contact info: Marc Levenson • Ft Worth, Texas • (817) 946-5271 • sales@melevsreef.com

Before you install it, make sure there are no visible signs of damage from shipping. The clear containers (sumps) should be screwed on snugly, and all tubing should be inserted into each fitting. Make sure the tubing is not kinked. With this system's electrical components, it can't be water tested for leaks before shipment. If you encounter a leak from any fitting, it may be necessary to remove and reinsert the tubing in that particular spot. This is not a defect and I'm happy to guide you with additional
help if necessary.

DO NOT USE THE FIRST 5 GALLONS OF WATER THAT THE SYSTEM MAKES. THIS WATER CONTAINS FOOD GRADE PRESERVATIVES THAT MUST BE FLUSHED FROM THE SYSTEM. Do not waste DI resin, run the system for one hour before feeding water through the DI section.

The red tube is the line that supplies water to the RO unit.
The black tube is the drain line for waste water. Simply place this tube in a sink or down a drain and allow the water to flow freely.
The blue tube is your good RO water.

Many households drink RO water, but the RO/DI water is for reef tanks. This is why the color-changing DI cartridge is mounted separately. Mount the main unit where you like with the DI unit to its right, if possible.

Please note: Saddle Pierce Valve (pictured above) is no longer available as of Sept 2016.

Connecting the unit:

The main system is heavy, and will hang from the wall at an angle if not supported well. Once water is added, it will be even more heavy. I'd suggest making something to wedge behind the housings to help it hang straight, like some type of foam. Make sure the screws you hang it from are strong, screwed into wood as pictured above. After installing the main unit on the wall securely...

There are three different ways to connect the red tubing to your water supply

Faucet Diverter

Sink adapter/Faucet Diverter- Remove the current strainer/aerator of your faucet, and screw in the included sink adapter. Press the red tubing over the hose barb fitting, seating it snugly. Turn on the water, and pull out the button to divert water to the RO/DI. Only use COLD WATER.

If the faucet diverter doesn't fit your faucet's threads, this may help:

If the faucet takes a male type aerator (as opposed to the female type aerator found in most kitchen sinks), they will need an adapter for it. I picked it up at home depot for $2. Description on it is:

Standard Male Adapter - 9D
- 15/16" -27 Thread
-Use with 15/16" Female Aerator ID #2B
- Easy to install

It may also necessary to remove the aerating screen before the tee going to the RO system (with the o-ring that is in there; it won't get a bite on the adapter).

Hose bib connection

Water Hose bib adaptor - The same as your washing machine or garden hose uses, a ¾" female threaded connection can be screwed on to the hose bib, and the red tubing inserted into the fitting. Turn on the water supply and your RO/DI will begin to fill up.

To share your washing machine water supply, buy a brass "Y" fitting from your local hardware store to create two connections - one for your washing machine, one for your RO/DI. Only use the COLD WATER connection.

Angled Stop Valve

Option 3) Useful under a bath or kitchen sink, this fitting can be installed on the cold water shut off and the threaded / braided hose is screwed onto the threaded end of the fitting. (fitting appearance may vary). Install this fitting, then press the red tubing into the JG collet fully, then tug slightly to test that it is secure. Open the valve with the blue handle to send water to the RO system.

Permanently install the drain line (If you aren't inserting the black tubing into a nearby drain pipe)

The black drain tubing can be used with the special drain adapter. It is designed to fit around the PVC or metal drainpipe under your sink up to 1.5" in diameter. Drill a 1/4" hole in the side of the pipe, apply the special gasket material to inner surface of the saddle clamp, align the saddle clamp with the fitting directly over the hole, and tighten the screws until snug. Slide the pastic nut over the end of the black tubing and insert 1" (more and the tubing will be an obstruction in your drain) and tighten. Watch for any leaks. (Images and step by step comments below)

Peel out the center piece of foam, then remove the paper backing.

Apply the foam to the inside of the saddle clamp that has the matching hole. Drill a 1/4" hole in the drain pipe.

Insert the tubing through the nut and saddle clamp, enough to insert into the hole slightly.

Insert the nuts into the slotted holes, then screw the clamp around the drain pipe.

This is what it should look like on your drain. Though hard to see, the 1/4" tubing should barely be inside the pipe so as not to snag anything (hair, etc) going down the sink's drain.

Once the system is plumbed to a cold water source, turn on the source water feed to turn on the RO system. (You can plug in the booster pump now, or wait until later)

The first hour's worth of pure water should not be used, because it contains the food-grade preservative in the membrane. After 5g of RO water have been made and poured down the drain, now you can connect the DI section:

Included in your package is a gray or white "Tee" fitting. Trim the blue tubing coming from the RO unit to the length you need, using a sharp razor blade or knife, trying not to pinch or kink the tubing in the process. Insert this end into the "Tee" fitting. Insert another piece between the Tee and the DI housing (pictured below). The remainder of the blue tubing is now inserted into the base of the "Tee" for drinking water. (We collect RO water in bottles, which are then stored in the refrigerator until desired.)

The DI section will hang on the right of the RO unit. Screw it securely to the wall using four screws. In the future when it is time to loosen the housing to change out the media cartridge, that top section needs to have a strong grip to the wall.

Looking at the picture above, note how the tubing goes into the base of each Tee fitting on the DI section. Water enters on the IN-side on the left, and exits on the OUT-side on the right.

Connect the TDS meter's probes into the top of each Tee fitting on the DI. In this way, it is possible to measure the RO water's TDS as well as the DI's TDS level. I recommend that you install the TDS meter's probes backwards on the DI, installing the OUT probe on the IN side and the IN probe on the OUT side. The reason for this suggestion is that the TDS meter's default view when turned on is the IN probe. Usually the number we want to know is the DI's TDS level, and only check the RO side on occasion. Makes sense, right?

When you press these probes into the John Guest fittings, you will need to press them in forcefully, yet not to the point of doing damage. They need to press in quite a bit; please double check your work. If the hose pops out unexpectantly, flooding the area will occur. Once they are installed correctly, reinstall the tiny blue retaining clips.

Included are two blue-handled ball valves, which are your shut offs. Insert the blue tubing coming from the "Tee" and from the DI unit into each one. You can only use one valve at a time when producing either drinking water or RO/DI water. The ball valves will have a John Guest fitting on one end, and is threaded on the other. Remove the blue clip. Press the tubing into the John Guest fitting firmly, then tug slightly to seat it. Replace the blue retaining clip. Ignore the other side with the internal threads, they don't connect to anything in this application. This is where the water comes out when you make RO or RO/DI water.

Connecting the booster pump

The booster pump has a power cord. This needs to be plugged into a nearby power outlet. A 110v extension cord may be used if the outlet is located out of reach of the pump's cord. Leave it plugged in at all times. The only time the booster pump will turn on is when you make water, and when done and the ball valve(s) are closed, the entire system including the booster pump will become silent within 90 seconds or less.

So what is this piece for?

The shipping companies occasionally break a fitting from time to time. I've included an extra elbow in every order so that if you find that your system has been damaged, you can quickly fix the problem. It is already wrapped with teflon tape, as pictured above.

Carefully extract the broken half still in the unit, using either one side of some needle-nose pliers or a small flathead screwdriver. Wedge it in gently, and unscrew it from the system. Screw in the new one by hand.

If some tubing is connected to the broken half of the old fitting: Remove the blue clip. Using your fingernail, press the collet against the fitting (what’s left of it) to extract the red tubing. Press the tubing in firmly while holding the collet down against the fitting, and pull the tubing out. This brief video may help.

On the new fitting is a small blue clip. Remove the clip, insert the tubing into the collet firmly. Tug slightly to seat it, and replace the blue retaining clip.

If the collet (the small plastic insert) was cracked or broken during shipping, you can use this spare part. The blue retaining clip may come in handy as well.

DO NOT USE THE FIRST 3 TO 5 GALLONS OF WATER THAT THE SYSTEM MAKES. THIS WATER CONTAINS FOOD GRADE PRESERVATIVES THAT ARE BEING FLUSHED FROM THE SYSTEM.

WHENEVER REPLACING FILTERS, ALWAYS FLUSH THE FIRST FEW GALLONS BEFORE USING. OPEN THE RO BALL VALVE (BEFORE THE DI SECTION) TO AVOID WASTING THE DI RESIN.

What happens next? The unit will fill up with water. When you make RO or RO/DI water, for every gallon you make, you’ll waste 3 gallons of water. This 3:1 ratio is normal, assuming you have average TDS, tepid water temperature and good water pressure. The pressure gauge will begin to rise, the booster pump will turn on and the gauge will move to 90-110 PSI.

If the DI chamber doesn’t fill up to the top with water...(Note: A brand new DI cartridge may take as long as 14 days to stay full all the time. This is normal, and is working properly.) This may occur when making vast amounts of water at once, or when the water supply is very cold during the winter months. Once you close the ball valve, the DI unit will fill to the top, and at that point the system will be off (hissing stops).

You can expect to make approximately 6.25 gallons of RO/DI water per hour, when optimum conditions exist. (150 gallons per day, divided by 24 hours). In the colder months where I live, it takes 65 minutes for it to make 5 gallons; in the summer months it takes 40 minutes to make the same amount. (Water quality varies from county to county, and state to state.)

When you close the ball valve, there will be a short delay before you hear the unit go silent. This can take about 15 seconds (or longer) before it shuts off. If it never goes silent, the ASOV (auto shut off valve) or possibly the check valve may need to be replaced. Water is going down the drain. Please check the FAQ section of the site. Or contact me so I can get you replacement parts.

A comment about quick-connect fittings: These are super easy to use. Insert tubing into the collet of the fitting, pressing firmly. Tug slightly to secure it. If you need to remove the tubing, press the collet against the fitting, and the tubing will be released so you can pull it out. I wish all plumbing was this easy! See the video above.

The clear canisters (sumps) surrounding the various filters are made of acrylic. They do not bounce, and they are more brittle than PVC. However, I prefer to see the filters for visual inspection. Please handle these gently and they will last for years. Only tighten them hand-tight to avoid breakage. If it holds water, it is tight enough. To loosen the acrylic housings, the included wrench will help. For further details, refer to these instructions.

To test the output water’s quality, a TDS meter is a great tool. The goal is "0". You can also test for chlorine with a kit available at any pool supply. Again, you want it to read "0".

Filters - The sediment filter (first one on the right) and the two carbon filters should be replaced every 6 months. The RO membrane should last you three to five years. The DI cartridge will change in color as it is used up, and its lifespan varies depending on how much water you make and how high the TDS is going into the resin - it could last 4-5 months, or as long as a year. Testing the TDS of the RO water and of the DI water will provide the information as to when the DI needs to be replaced. If the TDS is higher coming out of the DI, the media is fully expended and must be replaced. This page will explain how to change the filters correctly. If you need to buy more filters, you can do so here.

If you have any problems, check the RO/DI FAQ page for more details.

If you have any additional questions about your installation or have any needs for additional parts or filters, please email me and I will be happy to help you.

Limited Warranty

Melev's Reef makes no claim to the suitability of this product for any specific use. The end user is solely responsible for determining fitness for a particular use, and for installation. This product is sold as a component of a custom aquarium installation.

Your product is warranted to be free of defects for a period of one year from purchase. We will, at our discretion, repair or replace your product at no charge during this period. Return shipping is the responsibility of the purchaser. This warranty does not cover accidental damage, misuse, improper care or alteration, or acts of God, such as floods and earthquakes. Coverage terminates if the original purchaser sells or otherwise transfers the product. This warranty excludes claims for incidental or consequential damages, loss of revenue or profits, loss of business, or other financial loss in connection with the warranty problem. Some jurisdictions do not allow the exclusion of limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state or country to country.

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100gpd RODI Installation Instructions

melev — Tue, 30 Jun 2020 05:43:53 +0000

100gpd RODI Installation Instructions melev Tue, 06/30/2020 - 08:43

DO NOT USE THE FIRST 3 TO 5 GALLONS OF WATER THAT THE SYSTEM MAKES. THIS WATER CONTAINS FOOD GRADE PRESERVATIVES THAT MUST BE FLUSHED FROM THE SYSTEM.

The red tube is the line that supplies water to the RO unit.

The black tube is the drain line for waste water. Simply place this tube in a sink or down a drain and allow the water to flow freely.

The blue tube is your good RO water.

Please note: Saddle Pierce Valve (pictured above) is no longer available as of Sept 2016.

Connecting the unit:

Installing the main unit on the wall securely. Ideally, it should be screwed into a board that is well affixed to studs in the wall. In this example, the cabinetry had a perfect spot to hang the RO/DI system from. A couple of 1" pan head screws were installed in the 3/4" wood.

The unit was hung on those two screws. And the DI stage was affixed with four screws to the right of the main RO system.

A Tee fitting is installed next between the RO system and the DI stage. Cut the blue tubing as desired to reach the DI stage. See this next picture below. The purpose of this fitting is to capture RO water before the DI stage, either to avoid TDS creep or simply for delicious drinking water. Run the excess blue line from the Tee fitting down, and affix a cut off valve on the end. You can collect RO water in bottles, storing them in the refrigerator until desired for a handy cold drink.

This part is done. Now you need to decide how to connect it to a cold water source. Keep reading.

There are three different ways to connect the red tubing to your water supply

Option 1: Hose bib connection (preferred)

Water Hose bib adaptor - The same threads as your washing machine or garden hose uses, a ¾" female threaded connection can be screwed on to the hose bib, and the red tubing inserted into the fitting. Turn on the water supply and your RO/DI will begin to fill up. To share your washing machine water supply, buy a brass or plastic "Y" adapter from your local hardware store to split to two connections - one for your washing machine, one for your RO/DI. Only use the COLD WATER connection.

Here's an example showing a Y adapter installed on the cold water line behind the washing machine. One side continues to feed cold water to the washing machine, the other side feeds the RO system. The black hose is the waste line from the RO system, which is inserted about 2' into the drain pipe in the wall that the washing machine uses when it discharges wash or rinse water. You may note this Y adapter also has small cut-off levers to close the feed to either side, which may be handy when changing the filters on the RO system but you don't want to stop water from running to the washing machine.

Option 2: Faucet Diverter

If the faucet diverter doesn't fit your faucet's threads, this may help:

Standard Male Adapter - 9D
- 15/16" -27 Thread
-Use with 15/16" Female Aerator ID #2B
- Easy to install

It may also necessary to remove the aerating screen before the tee going to the RO system (with the o-ring that is in there; it won't get a bite on the adapter).

Option 3: Angled Stop Valve

Useful under a bath or kitchen sink, this fitting can be installed on the cold water shut off and the threaded / braided hose is screwed onto the threaded end of the fitting. (fitting appearance may vary). Install this fitting, then press the red tubing into the JG collet fully, then tug slightly to test that it is secure. Open the valve with the blue handle to send water to the RO system.

Permanently installing the drain line (optional)

The black drain tubing can be used with the special drain adapter. It is designed to fit around the PVC or metal drainpipe under a sink up to 1.5" in diameter. Drill a 1/4" hole in the side of the pipe, apply the special gasket material to inner surface of the saddle clamp, align the saddle clamp with the fitting directly over the hole, and tighten the screws until snug. Slide the pastic nut over the end of the black tubing and insert 1" (more and the tubing will be an obstruction in your drain) and tighten. Watch for any leaks. (Images and step by step comments below)

Peel out the center piece of foam, then remove the paper backing.

Apply the foam to the inside of the saddle clamp that has the matching hole. Drill a 1/4" hole in the drain pipe.

Insert the tubing through the nut and saddle clamp, enough to insert into the hole slightly.

Insert the nuts into the slotted holes, then screw the clamp around the drain pipe.

This is what it should look like on your drain. Though hard to see, the 1/4" tubing should barely extend inside the pipe so as not to snag anything (hair, etc) going down the sink's drain.

Now that the system is plumbed to a water source, you can turn the cold water feed and watch it fill up, checking for any leaks. The first hour's worth of RO water should not be used, because it contains the food-grade perservative in the membrane. After 5g of RO water have been made and poured down the drain (or onto some plants in the yard), it is ready to be used, and now you can begin to collect DI water. To be clear: The first hour's worth of production, this water should not pass through the DI stage because it would simply waste DI resin. Let the water come out of the blue tubing you install into the Tee fitting before the DI stage, and keep the valve closed on the tubing coming out of the DI stage.

Note: In the picture above, you can see the electrical outlet beneath the RO system. This customer added a protective plastic cover over that plug to avoid water getting into the outlets. If your RO system hangs over electrical outlets, you should do something similar because when you change filters, you may spill some water. Be safe, and plan ahead to avoid any risk of harm.

So what is this piece for?

The shipping companies occasionally break a fitting from time to time. I've included an extra elbow in every order so that if you find that your system has been damaged, you can quickly fix the problem. It may even be already wrapped with teflon tape, as pictured above. If not, apply a few twists of teflon tape on the replacement fitting before installing it.

If some tubing is connected to the broken half of the old fitting: Remove the blue clip. Using your fingernail, press the collet against the fitting (what’s left of it) to extract the red tubing.

On the new fitting is a small blue clip. Remove the clip, insert the tubing into the collet firmly. Tug slighly to seat it, and replace the blue retaining clip.

If the collet (the small plastic insert) was cracked or broken during shipping, you can use this spare part. The blue retaining clip may come in handy as well.

DO NOT USE THE FIRST 3 TO 5 GALLONS OF WATER THAT THE SYSTEM MAKES. THIS WATER CONTAINS FOOD GRADE PRESERVATIVES THAT ARE BEING FLUSHED FROM THE SYSTEM.

WHENEVER REPLACING FILTERS, ALWAYS FLUSH THE FIRST FEW GALLONS BEFORE USING.

OPEN THE RO BALL VALVE (BEFORE THE DI SECTION) TO AVOID WASTING THE DI RESIN

What happens next? The unit will fill up with water. When you make RO or RO/DI water, for every gallon you make, you’ll waste 4 gallons of water. This 4:1 ratio is normal, assuming you have average TDS, tepid water temperature and good water pressure.

If the DI chamber doesn’t fill up to the top with water...(Note: A brand new DI cartridge may take as long as 10 to 14 days to stay full all the time. This is normal, and is working properly.) This may occur when making vast amounts of water at once, or when the water supply is very cold during the winter months. Once you close the ball valve, the DI unit will fill to the top, and at that point the system will be off (hissing stops).

You can expect to make approximately 4 gallons of RO/DI water per hour, when optimum conditions exist. (100 gallons per day, divided by 24 hours). In the colder months where I live, it takes 85 minutes for it to make 5 gallons; in the summer months it takes 55 minutes to make the same amount. (Water quality varies from county to county, and state to state.)

When you close the ball valve, there will be a short delay before you hear the unit go silent. This can take about 15 seconds before it shuts off. If it never goes silent, the ASOV (auto shut off valve) or possibly the check valve may need to be replaced. Water is going down the drain. You can check the FAQ section of my site now, and/or contact me so I can get you replacement parts.

If you live in a very cold area, here’s a nice solution to keep your flow rate up even when your water supply is very cold:

Replace the tubing that leads from your cold water pipe to the unit with a 25' long piece. Coil as much of that tubing inside a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket up with water so the coils are submerged. Put an aquarium heater in the bucket and set it to 78° F. The heater will keep the bucket water at that temperature, and the water will warm up the water traveling through the tubing to your RO/DI unit. Production rates will jump back to normal.

To test the output water’s quality, a TDS meter is a great tool. The goal is "0". You can also test for chlorine with a kit available at any pool supply. Again, you want it to read "0".

If you have any problems, check the RO/DI FAQ page for more details.

If you have any additional questions about your installation or have any needs for additional parts or filters, please email m,e and I will be happy to help you.

Limited Warranty

Your product is warranteed to be free of defects for a period of one year from purchase. We will, at our discretion, repair or replace your product at no charge during this period. Return shipping is the responsibility of the purchaser. This warranty does not cover accidental damage, misuse, improper care or alteration, or acts of God, such as floods and earthquakes. Coverage terminates if the original purchaser sells or otherwise transfers the product. This warranty excludes claims for incidental or consequential damages, loss of revenue or profits, loss of business, or other financial loss in connection with the warranty problem. Some jurisdictions do not allow the exclusion of limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state or country to country.

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My Articles Category:

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Suncoral Care (Tubastrea sp.)

melev — Tue, 30 Jun 2020 05:32:57 +0000

Suncoral Care (Tubastrea sp.) melev Tue, 06/30/2020 - 08:32

I'd seen pictures of Sun Corals in forum discussions many times, but always thought they were too picky to be a good coral to keep in my own aquariums. I'd heard how important it was that every single polyp was carefully fed food daily or at least every other day. People came up with feeding domes and syringes with tubing to target feed it. All in all, it seemed like a lot of work and more than I was interested in performing.

In 2004, I saw a discussion thread about a bright pink sun coral, and there was quite a bit of debate whether it was dyed or not. As I read page after page of comments, I came across a couple of excellent articles about this coral's needs, as well as comments by proud owners. It wasn't nearly as difficult to care for as I'd previously understood. Tubastrea • Tubastrea by Eric Borneman

So I went to my LFS to see what they had, and found a tiny frag of a former sun coral with a two polyps barely alive. I figured I could practice on this piece, and if all went well I could get a healthy coral and maintain it properly. I brought it home and tried to coax it out to eat. In the meantime, a club member from DFWMAS offered to trade his own Sun Coral for an easier-to-keep coral, so I offered him a large piece of Hammer Coral in exchange. We both are very satisfied with the trade.

I placed the coral at the end of the tank, partially shielded by LR so the lights weren't too harsh on the tissue. From what I've read, these corals tend to live in dark caves, feeding frequently. I don't have a cave to offer it, plus I'd like to enjoy this brightly colored specimen when I view my tank.

After acclimating it slowly, this is what it looked like at 6:41 p.m.

At 8:21 p.m. it was hungry and extended its polyps. It had been trained to expect food at 8pm daily.

At 9:41 p.m. it looked like this.

A couple of hours later, I grabbed a flashlight to see how it was doing, and saw it was wide open! This picture was taken with the flash.

Some people have requested images of it feeding, so the following images can give you an idea of the process. I bought frozen Mysis Shrimp from a LFS, and thaw one cube in a small cup of tankwater for about 5 minutes. Using a small turkey baster, I can suck up some of the food (liquid and solid mysis) and drizzle it over the coral. The first day I turned off the pumps when I fed, but lately I've been leaving everything on to see how it does. Similar to an anemone, these little polyps seem a bit sticky and hold onto the food if it brushes up against the 'petals'.

It takes about 10 minutes to feed a cubes worth of food to the coral.

About every 3 minutes, several if not all of the polyps are waiting for the next batch of food.

It is surprising how large each mouth opens to swallow the mysis. An hour later, the coral was still extended waiting to be fed, so I fed it another cube's worth of food. I was told by one owner that they feed their coral three cubes worth each time, and I was very surprised. After seeing mine eat two cubes, I believe it.

Some have suggested feeding Cyclop-Eeze as well, but I've not tried that yet.

Look how the polyps are sharing the food, or should I say playing tug-of-war with it?!

Trying to keep the fish away from the coral during feedings, I'll drop more food in the tank to keep them busy. However, much to my shock, this Target Mandarin came over to the coral after already being feed live baby brine shrimp and the nightly dose of food. It hovered over the coral, and actually ate a few mysis and drifted away. While it is good to know this fish will eat frozen prepared foods, I don't want it stealing from my Sun Coral!

The daily feedings of mysis seems to be drawing some attention from the rest of my livestock. The fish hide nearby and wait for the moment I look away to steal some of the meaty food I'm feeding my coral. Late at night, my cleaner shrimp are picking things clean. The Mandarin comes over daily now, eating huge chunks of food that I'd expect he'd avoid considering the fact that they normally eat pods.

So here are the images. The first one is the original frag I bought with one sole surviving polyp. I moved it next to the healthy sun coral where it can benefit from the same feedings.

This next shot, the polyp has bigger eyes than its stomach, but that didn't stop it from thinking big!

Here my Target Mandarin is just about to pounce. The 'dust' you see is the mysid cloud that was drizzled over the coral moments before:

And a little later, it was "Table For Two, please":

Then my Hippo Tang dashed in when he thought I was away...

Even the coral beauty stole a snack:

And here's a shot of some of the traffic this section gets now.

I didn't get a decent picture of the Royal Gramma, and the two clowns aren't interested in the food but they'd prefer it if I'd stay away. The only fish I've not seen over here is my Anthias. She's a beauty too, but stays out of sight 90% of the time unfortunately.

The sun coral was opened up again before the lights came on, so I thought I'd be able to feed it before the fish woke up. This particular fish was captured stealing some food. I used the flash for this shot...

July 17, 2004: After feeding baby brineshrimp to my tank, the sun coral posed for this shot:

January 10, 2005: My suncoral continues to do well in my 280g reef. I feed it about 2 times a week, maybe more. Pumps are turned off, and I drizzle food over it and let it eat. Sometimes I cover it with a dome to protect the feeding process, other times I don't. Here are a few macro shots of the polyps.

June 5, 2005 - A year later, the sun coral is doing great. I'm very pleased with this coral and have to admit that it is far easier to care for it than I originally thought a year ago. Here it is, during the day time with the polyps closed up. You can see how healthy the tissue is all around the base, and the little baby polyps forming between the main branches or polyps.

It is important in my opinion to keep the coral on a rock where it can't settle into the sand. If it becomes submerged in the sand, the tissue will quickly die exposing skeleton. I'm currently feeding it directly once a week, under a dome to keep hungry livestock away. It is open all night feeding from the water. Since I feed the tank within 30 minutes of lights out, the water is nutrient rich for a good hour or more. I turn off the skimmer for two hours to avoid removing the planktonic food too quickly, and this seems to be working out nicely.

October 5, 2005: Over the past few months, I've acquired two more suncorals. One is a black one, and it does show some polyps during the photo-period (when the lights are on). It is branching suncoral, as is the new orange one I picked up.

Here are all three when the lights are on.

And again at night around 2 a.m.

Also... I discovered two suncoral babies in my tank. Here is one!

A different coral that looks very much like a suncoral is a Dendrophyllia. I don't want to confuse you so I'll only post one picture. As you can see, it looks quite similar. The polyp is probably three times larger than a suncoral polyp, and this coral stays open all day long with the lights on. I put this in my Pico (2 gallon) tank. Feeding it meaty food like mysis or cyclop-eeze will keep it growing and happy, just like a suncoral.

January 3, 2006: For the past few weeks, I saw some detritus / sand / cyano bacteria collecting within the core of the suncoral. Finally I tired of that and used a turkey baster to blow that stuff out of the coral. Much to my surprise, I found all the tissue in the core was gone, and I could see white skeleton. I'm sure with heavier feedings, this tissue will regrow again.

This coral is 1.5 years old now, and the other two branching suncorals nearby seem to be doing quite well. I need to resume feeding them a little more often so they'll grow more abundantly. I've gotten into the bad habit of only feeding them once a week, so growth is minimal. I might as well focus on them a little more so they'll become larger colonies.

December 21, 2007: A lot of time has passed since this page has been updated. During 2007, this coral deteriorated because I stopped feeding it regularly. Back in August I moved it out of my main reef and into a suncoral tank, a small 9" x 9" x 9" cube that is set up over the sump. It is very easy to target feed the coral each night in this small area, plus it adds something pretty to see when in the fishroom.

The main coral that has been featured on this page for years now is in the center of this tank. It took about 90 days to get it back to this point, and while it looks good in this picture, that is only half of what the colony was. With continued feedings, it'll regain its former glory. The orange coral(bottom left) is a Dendrophyllia that is doing very well with babies sprouting at its base. The rock with a few polyps is a very recent addition.

The suncoral in the back of the tank is the branching one pictured earlier on this page.

May 2012: I still have the parent colony of Tubastrea, and it enjoys nightly feedings. I've added a beautiful black suncoral, and a "Curlycue" coral.

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Bringing home corals on a plane

melev — Tue, 30 Jun 2020 05:29:50 +0000

Bringing home corals on a plane melev Tue, 06/30/2020 - 08:29

Bringing home livestock on a flight can be challenging, but it sure is nice to get your newest acquisitions into your quarantine system as soon as you get home rather than having someone ship them to you a day later and worry about the transit times. Plus it costs extra to ship overnight when you are already taking a plane home!

Normally, all coral frags are packed in a styrofoam cooler and checked as luggage. I've done this several times successfully. I've also used collapsible coolers that fit inside my suitcase, placing my the laundry around the cooler to cushion it during the trip and luggage handlers. One year coming back from MACNA XVII, I thought perhaps a bucket would be a wiser choice because it was quite sturdy. I only had 9 frags to bring home, and the buckets on display were empty at the show. Seachem gave me one, and I lined it with foam, and padded it with newspaper.

Once I got to the airport, security took it all apart, sniffed and studied everything carefully and allowed me and my future reeflings to pass. All the TSA agents were given my business card so they could learn more about the hobby, naturally.

Livestock traveled safely on the plane up in the front where odd-shaped carry-on stuff needed storing. It's probably for first class passengers, but I was quick and scurried off before the flight attendant could object loudly. ;) When I got home, the first thing I did was bring in my bucket and inspect the contents.

These lids unscrew. All you do is hit it with a hammer on a specific spot to release it from its locked position. Of course I missed and hit my own shin!!

The packing material was still dry.

Here's the livestock still safely in their individual bags.

All were floated in the sump under my reef to match temperature. Below you can see them individually. First, a purple tipped acropora.

A very hairy and happy A. millepora.

A green montipora foliosa with a purple rim.

Another acropora.

This is a Dendrophyllia. These are popular for nano tanks. They are similar in appearance to suncorals (Tubastrea), but each polyp is about three times as large. Plus they stay open during the lighting period.

Another acropora.

Bright pink Solomon Island Pocillopora damicornis.

I believe this is a A. milleopora as well, with blue tips.

Some other acropora whose name I don't recall. Once everything was temperature acclimated, it was unpacked and placed in the QT. A few days later, I can dip them for pests, and then place them in my reef.

I've had people ask me about taking corals on a plane, and if they needed permits:

I've gotten frags from hobbyists as well as vendor. If they are tank raised (he grew them himself), I can't imagine why any official would ask for a Cites Permit. If I'd flown to Fiji and took something from the ocean, or purchased it from a vendor overseas, that might be different.

What happens when you get to TSA or when you try to check your bag / luggage:

In the past, when I brought home corals from MACNA, I'd pack them carefully in a box that was checked as luggage. It would be a styrofoam cooler in a cardboard box, filled with frags in bags of water. When checking in, I'd take my open box to TSA for them to inspect them carefully, explaining they were live corals. They would then tape the box shut, and I'd request they put my box in a rubbermaid bin so that the box would be crushed between luggage. That didn't always work, but I requested it just the same. It's even better if they use their TSA tape to tape the box into the bin, so it stays as one piece.

Prior to 9/11, you could just take your bagged corals and fish in a soft cooler as carry on. One year I brought home about 9 frags in a salt bucket that I used to carry them home (as seen above).

TSA said the bucket had some type of gunpowder-like residual on it, and had to test it with various pads & sniffers, plus take every frag out. That was a little crazy, considering the vendor had brought empty buckets to the event for their display. Apparently some household cleaners can register as a questionable risk. I ended up talking to the five inspectors about the frags and their origins, and gave each of them my website business card so they could learn more about our hobby. Once they were done with their inspection, I repacked it carefully, and boarded the plane. The flight attendant saw my bucket, and was about to question me about it, but I just put it in their first little storage cubby where First Class sticks their golf clubs (LOL) and walked back to my seat after telling her that TSA said it was fine. I knew she didn't like it, but walked away like it was a done deal, and fortunately all the frags made it home intact.

What happens with TSA if you bring corals with on as carry on?

It never even came up during my security check. My stuff went through the machine, and I put my camera and laptop back in my backpack, and my iPhone and wallet in my pockets, and put my shoest back on. On the two flights home, it was in the overhead bin. I don't have any liquid in my bag, and don't mention the frags. If they were to inspect and ask about them, of course I'd explain what they were.

Can you bring fish with you on a plane?

I've never attempted it with a single fish. I've read that you can do so, but should contact the airline in advance to work out any possible snags. TSA will accept fish in bagged water because if the fish can swim around, the liquid must be water. If it was anything else, the fish would be dead, logically. I have brought home some fish from California once, but the airline official fought me tooth and nail when I wanted to check the box as one additional piece of (paid!) luggage. TSA repeatedly told me it was fine with them, but the airline representative was in rare form that day and would have nothing of it. I missed one flight arguing with them, and ended up having to call a friend to have them ship it as cargo with their commercial account. It was a nightmare because I ended up having to pay for a hotel near the airport to be nearby for the later flight that arrived the next day, then I had to rush home to see what survived. They weren't packed for a 24 hour ordeal; I was supposed to have them home within six hours. I don't want to ever have to deal with again. I'll buy my fish locally, or order them online.

Wrapping corals in wet paper towels

Another method that I've used was to carry corals that damp in my carry-on. Prior to heading to the airport, corals are bagged up with water as usual. If I'm coming directly from the LFS, or if I"m coming from a person's home, they bag it up with water and I ask for extra bags and some paper towels. At the airport before I go in, I'll soak the paper towels in saltwater from the bagged coral, roll the coral up loosely and place it in a ziplock bag as pictured below. Each coral is handled the same way, and placed in my camera bag in an empty compartment. I press out most of the air so it doesn't take up space and keep the pieces snugly together.

They traveled in my camera bag that I had with me as carry on during the flight. I had it in the overhead compartment until we landed. I don't unzip it until I'm at my car to maintain the temperature within the backpack. When driving, I'll make sure the corals are temperature controlled, not leaving the bag in direct sunlight.

Once home, corals are quickly floated in the quarantine tank to acclimate the temperature. 20 minutes later, I'll unwrap them and place them in the tank on a frag rack.

Here are the corals in my quarantine tank, a day later.

Bringing home corals doesn't have to be a huge headache if you plan ahead.

Additional reading:
Impulse buying
Frags from Florida

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