Plumbing

How to change a RO membrane

melev — Fri, 07 May 2021 19:40:47 +0000

How to change a RO membrane

These important steps will keep things running as they should

melev Fri, 05/07/2021 - 22:40

The membrane, the heart of the system, is good from one to five years. Water quality in your area directly affects that lifespan*, and I sell replacement membranes.

Some areas have softer water, while others quite the opposite. Source water that measures less than 300 TDS is best; anything higher is harder on the system. Measuring the source water's TDS levels can provide some idea of the conditions you are dealing with. The higher the TDS, the harder the membrane has to work, and decreases its life. Lower TDS-laden water is always better. Keep in mind that those numbers may vary throughout the year, affecting the way your RO system works.

1) Turn off the water going into the RO/DI system.

I installed an extra ball valve (available in my reef shop) in the cold water (red) line, to make it easier to shut off the water. My connection is behind the washing machine, and honestly I'd rather turn off the water to the entire house than try to get behind the washing machine. Thus this little modification made my life much easier. PLUS if you go on vacation, it might be wise to turn off the water going to the RO unit to avoid a potential disaster.

2) Open the valve after the DI to release the pressure trapped in the system.

3) Remove the blue tubing leading to the Tee fitting (pictured below) to avoid possible damage to those fittings.

4) Remove the main RO unit from the wall.

5) Disconnect the red tubing going into the right side of the RO membrane housing.

6) Disconnect the blue tubing going into the left side of the RO membrane housing.

7) Disconnect the black tubing, being careful not to lose the flow restrictor located in the end of the black tubing.

8) Carefully remove the white membrane housing from the clips affixed to the metal bracket.

Opening the housing may be difficult. Soaking the right end in hot water for a few minutes may help. Large channel lock pliers and a helper is another option, or use strap wrenches. Once the cap is unscrewed, access to the old membrane is now possible.

9) Using pliers, grip the plastic center rod carefully and gently pull the membrane out of the housing.

The above membrane was in my own RO/DI for over 5 years. The membrane was 'telescoping' to the left as water forced its way through, so much that it forced the black rubber gasket down the body of the membrane!

Next, open up the new membrane packaging, and verify that the new one and the old one match both in look and in length. If the membranes are off even by a 1/4" in length, it may not work in your system. The one I sell is the correct one for this system. (Pictured is an older membrane brand; I now offer the CSM brand.)

10) Insert the new membrane with the double black orings end going in first.

Do not force the membrane in. It should slide in easily. If some help is necessary, a little cooking oil on the orings as well as the black rubber gasket will allow it to slip in without damage to the membrane. If the membrane telescopes as it is inserted, it is being damaged.

Press it in fully so it is completely seated in the housing. Don't hammer it in. Making sure the large black O-ring is in the cap, screw it back onto the housing hand-tight. No wrench is necessary.

11) Reinstall the housing on to the RO system's metal bracket.

12) Reconnect the red tubing to the right end of the membrane.

13) Reconnect the blue and black tubing to the left end of the housing. Make sure the flow restrictor is still inside the black tubing as you press it into the fitting.

14) Reconnect the blue tubing to the Tee fitting leading to the DI section.

15) Turn on the water going to the RO system. Check system for any leaks.

Let the unit run for about one hour (5 gallons worth) to wash out the food grade preservatives, but not through the DI resin. The system is now ready to be used again, and the new membrane should last one to five years. It should last several years, but some areas of the U.S. simply destroy membranes at one year unfortunately.

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Plumb a single overflow to two zones

melev — Tue, 30 Jun 2020 17:50:55 +0000

Plumb a single overflow to two zones melev Tue, 06/30/2020 - 20:50

A tank with a single overflow can still run to two zones of a sump. I recommend running the drainline into both the skimmer section and the refugium zone, and I'm often asked how this is accomplished. Using gravity and a few extra fittings, you can direct water to two different zones from a single drain pipe.

I was able to demonstrate this configuration in my booth at MACNA 2012. These images capture the method, using a tee fitting, some elbows and a ball valve. Initial plumbing will take an extra 20 minutes of your time but lasts the lifespan of your setup until you opt to upgrade.

The drainline in this example was made with 1" plumbing and a slip/slip 1" bulkhead. A 2" piece of 1" PVC was glued into the bulkhead, then a Tee fitting, then another 2" piece of PVC, then the ball valve. Another 2" piece of PVC was glued into the ball valve, and this was pressed into the sump's receiving bulkhead. Within the sump, a 5" PVC pipe directed water into the bubble tower to stop microbubbles, control splashing and keep the sump quiet. See this next picture to understand the assembly.

The ball valve controls how much water drains into the skimmer section. As the ball valve is closed, water is forced back up the pipe and runs out the horizontal pipe of the Tee fitting to run to the refugium zone. If the ball valve is fully open, no water goes to the refugium. If the ball valve is fully closed, all water flows to the refugium. The ball valve is the key to controlling water flow in the two zones. I recommend 75% of the tank's raw water run into the skimmer section, and 25% to the refugium zone.

In the picture above, the collection cup of the skimmer was moved aside to show the horizontal PVC running to the right end of th sump, to drain into the refugium. And elbow was installed at mid-water level to allow air to breathe out of the pipe and keep the surface of the refugium zone rippling. Do not install the refugium drain under water; do as directed & pictured.

** Please note the 45° fitting that was necessary for the drain pipe to navigate around the return line running from the return pump back up to the tank.

And here's the final product. This is a very clean look, allows for two different water levels in a single sump, and it all works with a single drain. With your own tank, odds are you'll have much more space to work with, as the tank's stand will be significantly taller than my example setup at the conference.

All fittings were glued with clear PVC primer and PVC cement. As the pipes were glued into the fittings, the extra glue was wiped around the fitting with a fingertip to create a fillet of cement to assure no leaks. Often I read about poeple dealing with microbubbles with new plumbing and glue, but the tank ran bubble free immediately because of the way my sump is designed and how the glue was applied 24 hours prior to the event.

Additional information:
The skimmer used is a Reef Octopus Cone skimmer, and a Mag 5 return pump was perfectly matched for the 40g breeder atop the steel powdercoated stand. During the show, I had to use two 100w Cobalt heaters to maintain proper temperature in the somewhat chilly exhibitors hall. ClearFX Pro was used to assure excellent water clarity throughout the event.

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150gpd RODI Installation Instructions

melev — Tue, 30 Jun 2020 17:45:32 +0000

150gpd RODI Installation Instructions melev Tue, 06/30/2020 - 20:45

Congratulations! Your reef will thank you for providing excellent water quality from now on. This 100gpd 5-stage RO/DI is very easy to install, but if you have any further questions, you can email me any time. Contact info: Marc Levenson • Ft Worth, Texas • (817) 946-5271 • sales@melevsreef.com

Before you install it, make sure there are no visible signs of damage from shipping. The clear containers (sumps) should be screwed on snugly, and all tubing should be inserted into each fitting. Make sure the tubing is not kinked. With this system's electrical components, it can't be water tested for leaks before shipment. If you encounter a leak from any fitting, it may be necessary to remove and reinsert the tubing in that particular spot. This is not a defect and I'm happy to guide you with additional
help if necessary.

DO NOT USE THE FIRST 5 GALLONS OF WATER THAT THE SYSTEM MAKES. THIS WATER CONTAINS FOOD GRADE PRESERVATIVES THAT MUST BE FLUSHED FROM THE SYSTEM. Do not waste DI resin, run the system for one hour before feeding water through the DI section.

The red tube is the line that supplies water to the RO unit.
The black tube is the drain line for waste water. Simply place this tube in a sink or down a drain and allow the water to flow freely.
The blue tube is your good RO water.

Many households drink RO water, but the RO/DI water is for reef tanks. This is why the color-changing DI cartridge is mounted separately. Mount the main unit where you like with the DI unit to its right, if possible.

Please note: Saddle Pierce Valve (pictured above) is no longer available as of Sept 2016.

Connecting the unit:

The main system is heavy, and will hang from the wall at an angle if not supported well. Once water is added, it will be even more heavy. I'd suggest making something to wedge behind the housings to help it hang straight, like some type of foam. Make sure the screws you hang it from are strong, screwed into wood as pictured above. After installing the main unit on the wall securely...

There are three different ways to connect the red tubing to your water supply

Faucet Diverter

Sink adapter/Faucet Diverter- Remove the current strainer/aerator of your faucet, and screw in the included sink adapter. Press the red tubing over the hose barb fitting, seating it snugly. Turn on the water, and pull out the button to divert water to the RO/DI. Only use COLD WATER.

If the faucet diverter doesn't fit your faucet's threads, this may help:

If the faucet takes a male type aerator (as opposed to the female type aerator found in most kitchen sinks), they will need an adapter for it. I picked it up at home depot for $2. Description on it is:

Standard Male Adapter - 9D
- 15/16" -27 Thread
-Use with 15/16" Female Aerator ID #2B
- Easy to install

It may also necessary to remove the aerating screen before the tee going to the RO system (with the o-ring that is in there; it won't get a bite on the adapter).

Hose bib connection

Water Hose bib adaptor - The same as your washing machine or garden hose uses, a ¾" female threaded connection can be screwed on to the hose bib, and the red tubing inserted into the fitting. Turn on the water supply and your RO/DI will begin to fill up.

To share your washing machine water supply, buy a brass "Y" fitting from your local hardware store to create two connections - one for your washing machine, one for your RO/DI. Only use the COLD WATER connection.

Angled Stop Valve

Option 3) Useful under a bath or kitchen sink, this fitting can be installed on the cold water shut off and the threaded / braided hose is screwed onto the threaded end of the fitting. (fitting appearance may vary). Install this fitting, then press the red tubing into the JG collet fully, then tug slightly to test that it is secure. Open the valve with the blue handle to send water to the RO system.

Permanently install the drain line (If you aren't inserting the black tubing into a nearby drain pipe)

The black drain tubing can be used with the special drain adapter. It is designed to fit around the PVC or metal drainpipe under your sink up to 1.5" in diameter. Drill a 1/4" hole in the side of the pipe, apply the special gasket material to inner surface of the saddle clamp, align the saddle clamp with the fitting directly over the hole, and tighten the screws until snug. Slide the pastic nut over the end of the black tubing and insert 1" (more and the tubing will be an obstruction in your drain) and tighten. Watch for any leaks. (Images and step by step comments below)

Peel out the center piece of foam, then remove the paper backing.

Apply the foam to the inside of the saddle clamp that has the matching hole. Drill a 1/4" hole in the drain pipe.

Insert the tubing through the nut and saddle clamp, enough to insert into the hole slightly.

Insert the nuts into the slotted holes, then screw the clamp around the drain pipe.

This is what it should look like on your drain. Though hard to see, the 1/4" tubing should barely be inside the pipe so as not to snag anything (hair, etc) going down the sink's drain.

Once the system is plumbed to a cold water source, turn on the source water feed to turn on the RO system. (You can plug in the booster pump now, or wait until later)

The first hour's worth of pure water should not be used, because it contains the food-grade preservative in the membrane. After 5g of RO water have been made and poured down the drain, now you can connect the DI section:

Included in your package is a gray or white "Tee" fitting. Trim the blue tubing coming from the RO unit to the length you need, using a sharp razor blade or knife, trying not to pinch or kink the tubing in the process. Insert this end into the "Tee" fitting. Insert another piece between the Tee and the DI housing (pictured below). The remainder of the blue tubing is now inserted into the base of the "Tee" for drinking water. (We collect RO water in bottles, which are then stored in the refrigerator until desired.)

The DI section will hang on the right of the RO unit. Screw it securely to the wall using four screws. In the future when it is time to loosen the housing to change out the media cartridge, that top section needs to have a strong grip to the wall.

Looking at the picture above, note how the tubing goes into the base of each Tee fitting on the DI section. Water enters on the IN-side on the left, and exits on the OUT-side on the right.

Connect the TDS meter's probes into the top of each Tee fitting on the DI. In this way, it is possible to measure the RO water's TDS as well as the DI's TDS level. I recommend that you install the TDS meter's probes backwards on the DI, installing the OUT probe on the IN side and the IN probe on the OUT side. The reason for this suggestion is that the TDS meter's default view when turned on is the IN probe. Usually the number we want to know is the DI's TDS level, and only check the RO side on occasion. Makes sense, right?

When you press these probes into the John Guest fittings, you will need to press them in forcefully, yet not to the point of doing damage. They need to press in quite a bit; please double check your work. If the hose pops out unexpectantly, flooding the area will occur. Once they are installed correctly, reinstall the tiny blue retaining clips.

Included are two blue-handled ball valves, which are your shut offs. Insert the blue tubing coming from the "Tee" and from the DI unit into each one. You can only use one valve at a time when producing either drinking water or RO/DI water. The ball valves will have a John Guest fitting on one end, and is threaded on the other. Remove the blue clip. Press the tubing into the John Guest fitting firmly, then tug slightly to seat it. Replace the blue retaining clip. Ignore the other side with the internal threads, they don't connect to anything in this application. This is where the water comes out when you make RO or RO/DI water.

Connecting the booster pump

The booster pump has a power cord. This needs to be plugged into a nearby power outlet. A 110v extension cord may be used if the outlet is located out of reach of the pump's cord. Leave it plugged in at all times. The only time the booster pump will turn on is when you make water, and when done and the ball valve(s) are closed, the entire system including the booster pump will become silent within 90 seconds or less.

So what is this piece for?

The shipping companies occasionally break a fitting from time to time. I've included an extra elbow in every order so that if you find that your system has been damaged, you can quickly fix the problem. It is already wrapped with teflon tape, as pictured above.

Carefully extract the broken half still in the unit, using either one side of some needle-nose pliers or a small flathead screwdriver. Wedge it in gently, and unscrew it from the system. Screw in the new one by hand.

If some tubing is connected to the broken half of the old fitting: Remove the blue clip. Using your fingernail, press the collet against the fitting (what’s left of it) to extract the red tubing. Press the tubing in firmly while holding the collet down against the fitting, and pull the tubing out. This brief video may help.

On the new fitting is a small blue clip. Remove the clip, insert the tubing into the collet firmly. Tug slightly to seat it, and replace the blue retaining clip.

If the collet (the small plastic insert) was cracked or broken during shipping, you can use this spare part. The blue retaining clip may come in handy as well.

DO NOT USE THE FIRST 3 TO 5 GALLONS OF WATER THAT THE SYSTEM MAKES. THIS WATER CONTAINS FOOD GRADE PRESERVATIVES THAT ARE BEING FLUSHED FROM THE SYSTEM.

WHENEVER REPLACING FILTERS, ALWAYS FLUSH THE FIRST FEW GALLONS BEFORE USING. OPEN THE RO BALL VALVE (BEFORE THE DI SECTION) TO AVOID WASTING THE DI RESIN.

What happens next? The unit will fill up with water. When you make RO or RO/DI water, for every gallon you make, you’ll waste 3 gallons of water. This 3:1 ratio is normal, assuming you have average TDS, tepid water temperature and good water pressure. The pressure gauge will begin to rise, the booster pump will turn on and the gauge will move to 90-110 PSI.

If the DI chamber doesn’t fill up to the top with water...(Note: A brand new DI cartridge may take as long as 14 days to stay full all the time. This is normal, and is working properly.) This may occur when making vast amounts of water at once, or when the water supply is very cold during the winter months. Once you close the ball valve, the DI unit will fill to the top, and at that point the system will be off (hissing stops).

You can expect to make approximately 6.25 gallons of RO/DI water per hour, when optimum conditions exist. (150 gallons per day, divided by 24 hours). In the colder months where I live, it takes 65 minutes for it to make 5 gallons; in the summer months it takes 40 minutes to make the same amount. (Water quality varies from county to county, and state to state.)

When you close the ball valve, there will be a short delay before you hear the unit go silent. This can take about 15 seconds (or longer) before it shuts off. If it never goes silent, the ASOV (auto shut off valve) or possibly the check valve may need to be replaced. Water is going down the drain. Please check the FAQ section of the site. Or contact me so I can get you replacement parts.

A comment about quick-connect fittings: These are super easy to use. Insert tubing into the collet of the fitting, pressing firmly. Tug slightly to secure it. If you need to remove the tubing, press the collet against the fitting, and the tubing will be released so you can pull it out. I wish all plumbing was this easy! See the video above.

The clear canisters (sumps) surrounding the various filters are made of acrylic. They do not bounce, and they are more brittle than PVC. However, I prefer to see the filters for visual inspection. Please handle these gently and they will last for years. Only tighten them hand-tight to avoid breakage. If it holds water, it is tight enough. To loosen the acrylic housings, the included wrench will help. For further details, refer to these instructions.

To test the output water’s quality, a TDS meter is a great tool. The goal is "0". You can also test for chlorine with a kit available at any pool supply. Again, you want it to read "0".

Filters - The sediment filter (first one on the right) and the two carbon filters should be replaced every 6 months. The RO membrane should last you three to five years. The DI cartridge will change in color as it is used up, and its lifespan varies depending on how much water you make and how high the TDS is going into the resin - it could last 4-5 months, or as long as a year. Testing the TDS of the RO water and of the DI water will provide the information as to when the DI needs to be replaced. If the TDS is higher coming out of the DI, the media is fully expended and must be replaced. This page will explain how to change the filters correctly. If you need to buy more filters, you can do so here.

If you have any problems, check the RO/DI FAQ page for more details.

If you have any additional questions about your installation or have any needs for additional parts or filters, please email me and I will be happy to help you.

Limited Warranty

Melev's Reef makes no claim to the suitability of this product for any specific use. The end user is solely responsible for determining fitness for a particular use, and for installation. This product is sold as a component of a custom aquarium installation.

Your product is warranted to be free of defects for a period of one year from purchase. We will, at our discretion, repair or replace your product at no charge during this period. Return shipping is the responsibility of the purchaser. This warranty does not cover accidental damage, misuse, improper care or alteration, or acts of God, such as floods and earthquakes. Coverage terminates if the original purchaser sells or otherwise transfers the product. This warranty excludes claims for incidental or consequential damages, loss of revenue or profits, loss of business, or other financial loss in connection with the warranty problem. Some jurisdictions do not allow the exclusion of limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state or country to country.

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100gpd RODI Installation Instructions

melev — Tue, 30 Jun 2020 05:43:53 +0000

100gpd RODI Installation Instructions melev Tue, 06/30/2020 - 08:43

DO NOT USE THE FIRST 3 TO 5 GALLONS OF WATER THAT THE SYSTEM MAKES. THIS WATER CONTAINS FOOD GRADE PRESERVATIVES THAT MUST BE FLUSHED FROM THE SYSTEM.

The red tube is the line that supplies water to the RO unit.

The black tube is the drain line for waste water. Simply place this tube in a sink or down a drain and allow the water to flow freely.

The blue tube is your good RO water.

Please note: Saddle Pierce Valve (pictured above) is no longer available as of Sept 2016.

Connecting the unit:

Installing the main unit on the wall securely. Ideally, it should be screwed into a board that is well affixed to studs in the wall. In this example, the cabinetry had a perfect spot to hang the RO/DI system from. A couple of 1" pan head screws were installed in the 3/4" wood.

The unit was hung on those two screws. And the DI stage was affixed with four screws to the right of the main RO system.

A Tee fitting is installed next between the RO system and the DI stage. Cut the blue tubing as desired to reach the DI stage. See this next picture below. The purpose of this fitting is to capture RO water before the DI stage, either to avoid TDS creep or simply for delicious drinking water. Run the excess blue line from the Tee fitting down, and affix a cut off valve on the end. You can collect RO water in bottles, storing them in the refrigerator until desired for a handy cold drink.

This part is done. Now you need to decide how to connect it to a cold water source. Keep reading.

There are three different ways to connect the red tubing to your water supply

Option 1: Hose bib connection (preferred)

Water Hose bib adaptor - The same threads as your washing machine or garden hose uses, a ¾" female threaded connection can be screwed on to the hose bib, and the red tubing inserted into the fitting. Turn on the water supply and your RO/DI will begin to fill up. To share your washing machine water supply, buy a brass or plastic "Y" adapter from your local hardware store to split to two connections - one for your washing machine, one for your RO/DI. Only use the COLD WATER connection.

Here's an example showing a Y adapter installed on the cold water line behind the washing machine. One side continues to feed cold water to the washing machine, the other side feeds the RO system. The black hose is the waste line from the RO system, which is inserted about 2' into the drain pipe in the wall that the washing machine uses when it discharges wash or rinse water. You may note this Y adapter also has small cut-off levers to close the feed to either side, which may be handy when changing the filters on the RO system but you don't want to stop water from running to the washing machine.

Option 2: Faucet Diverter

If the faucet diverter doesn't fit your faucet's threads, this may help:

Standard Male Adapter - 9D
- 15/16" -27 Thread
-Use with 15/16" Female Aerator ID #2B
- Easy to install

It may also necessary to remove the aerating screen before the tee going to the RO system (with the o-ring that is in there; it won't get a bite on the adapter).

Option 3: Angled Stop Valve

Useful under a bath or kitchen sink, this fitting can be installed on the cold water shut off and the threaded / braided hose is screwed onto the threaded end of the fitting. (fitting appearance may vary). Install this fitting, then press the red tubing into the JG collet fully, then tug slightly to test that it is secure. Open the valve with the blue handle to send water to the RO system.

Permanently installing the drain line (optional)

The black drain tubing can be used with the special drain adapter. It is designed to fit around the PVC or metal drainpipe under a sink up to 1.5" in diameter. Drill a 1/4" hole in the side of the pipe, apply the special gasket material to inner surface of the saddle clamp, align the saddle clamp with the fitting directly over the hole, and tighten the screws until snug. Slide the pastic nut over the end of the black tubing and insert 1" (more and the tubing will be an obstruction in your drain) and tighten. Watch for any leaks. (Images and step by step comments below)

Peel out the center piece of foam, then remove the paper backing.

Apply the foam to the inside of the saddle clamp that has the matching hole. Drill a 1/4" hole in the drain pipe.

Insert the tubing through the nut and saddle clamp, enough to insert into the hole slightly.

Insert the nuts into the slotted holes, then screw the clamp around the drain pipe.

This is what it should look like on your drain. Though hard to see, the 1/4" tubing should barely extend inside the pipe so as not to snag anything (hair, etc) going down the sink's drain.

Now that the system is plumbed to a water source, you can turn the cold water feed and watch it fill up, checking for any leaks. The first hour's worth of RO water should not be used, because it contains the food-grade perservative in the membrane. After 5g of RO water have been made and poured down the drain (or onto some plants in the yard), it is ready to be used, and now you can begin to collect DI water. To be clear: The first hour's worth of production, this water should not pass through the DI stage because it would simply waste DI resin. Let the water come out of the blue tubing you install into the Tee fitting before the DI stage, and keep the valve closed on the tubing coming out of the DI stage.

Note: In the picture above, you can see the electrical outlet beneath the RO system. This customer added a protective plastic cover over that plug to avoid water getting into the outlets. If your RO system hangs over electrical outlets, you should do something similar because when you change filters, you may spill some water. Be safe, and plan ahead to avoid any risk of harm.

So what is this piece for?

The shipping companies occasionally break a fitting from time to time. I've included an extra elbow in every order so that if you find that your system has been damaged, you can quickly fix the problem. It may even be already wrapped with teflon tape, as pictured above. If not, apply a few twists of teflon tape on the replacement fitting before installing it.

If some tubing is connected to the broken half of the old fitting: Remove the blue clip. Using your fingernail, press the collet against the fitting (what’s left of it) to extract the red tubing.

On the new fitting is a small blue clip. Remove the clip, insert the tubing into the collet firmly. Tug slighly to seat it, and replace the blue retaining clip.

If the collet (the small plastic insert) was cracked or broken during shipping, you can use this spare part. The blue retaining clip may come in handy as well.

DO NOT USE THE FIRST 3 TO 5 GALLONS OF WATER THAT THE SYSTEM MAKES. THIS WATER CONTAINS FOOD GRADE PRESERVATIVES THAT ARE BEING FLUSHED FROM THE SYSTEM.

WHENEVER REPLACING FILTERS, ALWAYS FLUSH THE FIRST FEW GALLONS BEFORE USING.

OPEN THE RO BALL VALVE (BEFORE THE DI SECTION) TO AVOID WASTING THE DI RESIN

What happens next? The unit will fill up with water. When you make RO or RO/DI water, for every gallon you make, you’ll waste 4 gallons of water. This 4:1 ratio is normal, assuming you have average TDS, tepid water temperature and good water pressure.

If the DI chamber doesn’t fill up to the top with water...(Note: A brand new DI cartridge may take as long as 10 to 14 days to stay full all the time. This is normal, and is working properly.) This may occur when making vast amounts of water at once, or when the water supply is very cold during the winter months. Once you close the ball valve, the DI unit will fill to the top, and at that point the system will be off (hissing stops).

You can expect to make approximately 4 gallons of RO/DI water per hour, when optimum conditions exist. (100 gallons per day, divided by 24 hours). In the colder months where I live, it takes 85 minutes for it to make 5 gallons; in the summer months it takes 55 minutes to make the same amount. (Water quality varies from county to county, and state to state.)

When you close the ball valve, there will be a short delay before you hear the unit go silent. This can take about 15 seconds before it shuts off. If it never goes silent, the ASOV (auto shut off valve) or possibly the check valve may need to be replaced. Water is going down the drain. You can check the FAQ section of my site now, and/or contact me so I can get you replacement parts.

If you live in a very cold area, here’s a nice solution to keep your flow rate up even when your water supply is very cold:

Replace the tubing that leads from your cold water pipe to the unit with a 25' long piece. Coil as much of that tubing inside a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket up with water so the coils are submerged. Put an aquarium heater in the bucket and set it to 78° F. The heater will keep the bucket water at that temperature, and the water will warm up the water traveling through the tubing to your RO/DI unit. Production rates will jump back to normal.

To test the output water’s quality, a TDS meter is a great tool. The goal is "0". You can also test for chlorine with a kit available at any pool supply. Again, you want it to read "0".

If you have any problems, check the RO/DI FAQ page for more details.

If you have any additional questions about your installation or have any needs for additional parts or filters, please email m,e and I will be happy to help you.

Limited Warranty

Your product is warranteed to be free of defects for a period of one year from purchase. We will, at our discretion, repair or replace your product at no charge during this period. Return shipping is the responsibility of the purchaser. This warranty does not cover accidental damage, misuse, improper care or alteration, or acts of God, such as floods and earthquakes. Coverage terminates if the original purchaser sells or otherwise transfers the product. This warranty excludes claims for incidental or consequential damages, loss of revenue or profits, loss of business, or other financial loss in connection with the warranty problem. Some jurisdictions do not allow the exclusion of limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state or country to country.

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Building a Closed Loop (German)

melev — Tue, 21 Nov 2017 16:58:13 +0000

Building a Closed Loop (German) melev Tue, 11/21/2017 - 19:58

Ein Closed-Loop-System für ein Becken ohne Bohrungen

English version here: http://www.melevsreef.com/tanks/29g-closed-loop-in-an-undrilled-tank

Ich wollte ein Closed-Loop-System an meinem ungebohrten 110l-Becken betreiben. Mein Ziel war, einen SCWD Strömungsverteiler zu verwenden und damit zwei MaxiJet 1200 Strömungspumpen zu ersetzen. So wurde er verrohrt...

Er wurde mit 3/4 Zoll dünnwandigem PVC-Rohr und "Schedule 40"-Verbindungen an eine "Mag 5"-Pumpe angeschlossen. Mittels der Abdeckkappe (oben rechts) wird der Pumpenkreislauf gestartet. Wenn die Verrohrung mit Wasser gefüllt ist, kann diese Kappe wieder aufgeschraubt werden. Verwenden Sie Teflonband für alle Gewinde!!!

Das System musste eine Spannweite von 63,5 cm abdecken und einen Hang-On-Abschäumer sowie einen Überlaufkasten umgehen.

Das Rohr mit den zahlreichen Löchern ist das Ansaugrohr. Der Grund für die Bohrungen ist, dass, wenn irgendein Tier darauf herumkrabbeln oder angesaugt würde, es sich trotzdem von dem Rohr befreien und weiterspazieren könnte. Dieser Bereich kann zu Reinigungszwecken entfernt werden. Die Löcher haben 3 mm Durchmesser und sind vierseitig alle 13 mm über eine Länge von 23 cm angebracht.

Die Ausläufe sind die einzigen Teile, die nicht geklebt wurden, damit sie gedreht werden können, um die Strömungsrichtung - falls nötig - ändern zu können. Alle anderen Teile wurden sicher verklebt um Mikro-Luftbläschen zu verhindern.

Beide Ausläufe befinden sich in den hinteren Ecken. Der andere Auslauf, den man links vorne sieht, ist von meinem Technikbecken und Refugium.

28.02.2003 - Ich habe viele E-Mails zu diesem Projekt bekommen, weshalb ich ein paar weitere Details hinzufügen möchte.

Was ist das schwarze Teil in der Mitte?

Das ist der SCWD Strömungsverteiler von 3iQ. Klicken Sie hier für weitere Informationen direkt vom Hersteller. Der Strömungsverteiler kann fast überall bezogen werden - bei Ihrem Fachhändler, Ebay oder auch über das "Biete"-Forum auf Reef Central. Die Preise bewegen sich um die $40 pro Stück und das Gerät wird durch Wasser angetrieben. Da es nicht elektrisch betrieben wird, kann es untergetaucht oder extern betrieben werden. Durchflussraten: 190 l/h - 5.300 l/h. Einlass und Auslauf haben 3/4"-Schlauchanschlüsse, deshalb benötigen Sie etwas 3/4"-Schlauch und Schlauchklemmen für den Anschluss. Wofür ist das Teil mit der Abdeckkappe?

Dort wird nach der Installation Wasser zugeführt, damit die Pumpe starten kann. Verwenden Sie unbedingt Teflonband um die Gewinde luftdicht zu versiegeln. Schalten Sie dann die Pumpe ein und innerhalb der nächsten zehn Sekunden wird die gesamte verbliebene Luft aus der Verrohrung geblasen. Sie müssen diesen Vorgang nicht wieder durchführen, außer wenn Sie die Pumpe oder den SCWD zur Wartung entfernen. Auch wenn Sie die Pumpe ausschalten, wird sie wieder anlaufen, solange die Abdeckkappe nicht entfernt wird.

Hängt das Ganze am Aquarium? Ist es nicht zu schwer?

Nein, das Teil hängt nicht hinten am Aquarium. Ich habe es so ausgemessen, dass die Pumpe hinten auf meinem Unterschrank aufliegt und die Rohre etwa 1 cm über der Rückwand des Aquariums schweben, um Vibrationen zu vermeiden. Ich dachte zuerst, dass ich ein Mauspad unter die Pumpe legen müsste um Lärm zu vermeiden, aber es war nicht notwendig.

Würdest Du irgendwelche Verbesserungen am Aufbau vornehmen, jetzt wo das Ganze in Betrieb ist?

Ja. Ich würde keine Sicherheitslöcher in die Ausläufe bohren. Sie sind unnötig. Auch wenn die Pumpe ausgeschaltet ist, kann das Wasser nirgendwo hin, ein Rücklauf durch einen Siphon-Effekt ist also kein Thema. Trotzdem möchte ich anführen, dass es durch die Löcher nicht passieren kann, dass das Becken weiter ausläuft als bis zu diesen Löchern, sollte die Pumpe oder die Verrohrung undicht werden. Sollten Sie also diese Sicherheitslöcher verwenden wollen, achten Sie darauf, dass sie ca. 2,5 cm unter der Wasseroberfläche platziert sind.

Ich würde auch noch eine Kupplung am Einlass sowie ein paar Kugelhähne nach den Ausgängen des SCWD anbringen. So könnte man, wenn die Pumpe zur Wartung entfernt werden muss, die Hähne schließen und danach die Kupplungen abschrauben und die Pumpe könnte einfach gereinigt werden. Zusätzlich könnte auch der SCWD leicht entfernt werden, falls er Reinigung benötigt (oder ein Essigbad als Teil der ständigen Wartung). Ich würde auch ein T-Stück mit Kugelhahn beim Einlass anbringen, um das Wasser vor dem Entfernen aus der Pumpe ablassen zu können. Hier ist eine Zeichnung dieser Modifikationen. Wenn ich dazu komme, die Änderungen an meiner eigenen Anlage umzusetzen, werde ich auch neue Bilder einstellen, aber momentan muss das leider warten.

Muss der Wasserkreislauf wieder neu gestartet werden, wenn der Strom oder die Pumpe ausfällt?

Nein. Das Wasser verlässt den Kreislauf nicht, nur ein wenig Wasser aus den Auslaufrohren fließt aufgrund der Schwerkraft ab. Beim erneuten Start wird nur wenig Luft eingesaugt und innerhalb weniger Sekunden wieder aus dem System geblasen. (Verwenden Sie unbedingt Teflonband am Gewinde der Abdeckkappe um eine luftdichte Versiegelung zu erzielen.)

Ich habe bemerkt, dass Du die "Mag"-Förderpumpe extern verwendest, aber ich habe gehört, dass diese Pumpen undicht werden?

Ich habe "Mag"-Pumpen schon untergetaucht und extern verwendet. Ich hatte bis jetzt weder Undichtigkeiten noch Vibrationsgeräusche. Ich hatte schon Salzablagerungen auf der Pumpe, aber nicht genug, um das System auseinandernehmen zu müssen. Ich habe mein Closed-Loop-System für 6 Monate nicht angerührt und es lief die ganze Zeit über ohne Probleme. Hier ist ein guter Tipp zur Wartung von "Mag"-Pumpen und dem Auseinandernehmen für die Reinigung.

Kann man auch eine "Mag 7"-Pumpe verwenden?

30.09.2003 - Nachdem das System für sechs Monate mit einer "Mag 5"-Pumoe lief, habe ich sie durch eine "Mag 7" ersetzt und bin sehr glücklich über das Ergebnis. Die "Mag 5" und die "Mag 7" haben die gleiche Größe, also waren keine Anpassungen notwendig. Die Pumpe klingt auch nicht anders als die "Mag 5" und ist praktisch geräuschlos. Falls Ihre Pumpe laut ist, versuchen Sie die Pumpe für 5-10 Sekunden auszustecken, damit eventuell vorhandene Luftbläschen aus der Verrohrung entweichen können. Ich denke, dass es aufgrund von Kavitation zu den Geräuschen kommen kann und das ist eine einfache Lösung dafür.

07.04.2004 - Wollen Sie ein Video sehen? ~~49 Sekunden (4,2 MB Download)~~ Während eines Wasserwechsels bemerkte ich, dass man die Strömung leicht erkennen konnte, da sich Luft mit dem Wasser aus dem Auslauf vermischte. Wenn das Becken voll ist gibt es keine Bläschen und der einzige Hinweis für die Strömung ist die Bewegung meiner Anemone und der Weichkorallen.

Welche Dimensionen soll ich für die Verrohrung verwenden?

Die den "Mag"-Pumpen beiliegende Bedienungsanleitung gibt an, dass die Größe der Anschlüsse verdoppelt werden soll, um die Dimension der Verrohrung zu bestimmen. Die "Mag 7" hat einen 1/2 Zoll-Auslauf und die PVC-Verrohrung muss deshalb 1 Zoll haben. Bei der Verwendung von 1" PVC-Rohren ist die Strömung erheblich besser als bei der Verwendung von Rohren mit kleinerem Innendurchmesser. Nun birgt das ein neues Problem, da der Durchmesser kleiner werden muss, um an den SCWD zu passen und dann wieder größer werden muss, um Verengungen zu vermeiden. Also müssen Sie passende Muffen oder Reduzierstücke finden, um das Ganze so umzusetzen. Oder Sie verwenden flexiblen Schlauch: Stecken Sie ein kleines Stück Schlauch auf die SCWD-Ausgänge um eine kleine Manschette zu bilden, auf die Sie ein Stück Schlauch einer größeren Dimension aufstecken, wobei Sie das ganze sicher mit einer Schlauchklemme verbinden. Für die externe Anwendung können Metall-Schlauchklemmen verwendet werden, solange die Verbindungen nicht mit Wasser in Kontakt kommen.

Hier ist ein Bild vom Gesamt-Aufbau, der hinten an meinem Becken installiert ist. Ich dachte mir, dass Sie das Ganze auch in Betrieb sehen wollen. (Rück- und Seitenansicht)

Assembly here: http://www.melevsreef.com/tanks/29g-how-to-build-a-scwd-closed-loop

Translation by Alexander Thomasser on 4/2007 - Vielen Danke!!

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